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2021s from Domaine de la Folie & J-M Gaunoux

Our 2021 Burgundy en primeur offers continue this week with the wines of Domaine de la Folie and Domaine Jean-Michel Gaunoux.

The 2021 frost was brutal for both these estates and both lost in the region of 80% of their production.  For Domaine de la Folie this meant that Vinum were not even offered any 2021 reds, they had so little wine.  Henri Gaunoux was unable to make any of his negociant wines, for which he exchanges domaine fruit for grapes from other grower’s vineyards, so there is no Meursault Charmes of Genevrieres this year.

Tragedy aside, both estates have made some remarkable 2021s.  Folie is an absolute jewel of a domaine, making wines that defy their modest appellation.  Domaine Jean-Michel Gaunoux is evolving into a force to be reckoned with in Meursault – Neal Martin scores the 2021 Meursault Perrieres on a par with that of Guy Roulot, yet its price occupies another universe.

With best wishes,
Matthew Hemming MW

The Offer: 
Offered en primeur for delivery later this year.
Due to the vintage conditions, all 2021 Burgundies are subject to allocation.  We aim to confirm orders within one week, with allocations taking into account:

  • Purchases of both en primeur and physical wines over the last 3 years.
  • ‘Across the board’ orders of wines outside of the most sought-after bottlings.
  • Historical purchases of the wines in question.
  • Broader support of Vinum including use of our broking and storage services.

Domaine de la Folie 2021 
Bourgogne Aligote
$240 per case (1×6) OC (inc GST $259.20)
A rather special Aligote: this is made from the Aligote d’Oree clone and vines that are 100 years old.  Bright, zippy and crisp with notes of citrus fruit, hay and fresh grass.  Holds impressive balance and poise.  Not too lean.  Uncomplicated but a pure delight.
89/100 – Matthew Hemming MW

The 2021 Bourgogne Aligoté was less affected by the frost as the growth cycle is later. It has a pretty nose with citrus fruit, candy floss and light strawberry scents. The palate is rounded and simple with fine tension, a touch of lemongrass and white pepper on the slightly short finish.
86/100 – Neal Martin / vinous.com

Rully Clos la Folie
$330 per case (1×6) OC (inc GST $356.40 )
The immediate impression is quite voluminous and rich but then the acidity kicks in and freshens everything up considerably.  Really glassy – surprisingly so – and citric through the middle.  Lovely, rainwater-fresh, tension and brightness.
91/100 – Matthew Hemming MW

The 2021 Rully Clos la Folie Blanc is vinified in stainless steel and was racked twice during its élevage. The nose is well-defined with red apple, desiccated orange peel and a touch of ginger. The palate is well balanced with fine acidity, clean and precise with a touch of spice that enlivens the finish.
88/100 – Neal Martin

Rully 1er Cru Clos du Chaigne
$360 per case (1×6) OC (inc GST $388.80 )
20% new oak.  This was bottled only about 8 days ago and is consequently a bit hard to read…  Rich, but nicely compact, orchard fruit alongside the 2021 acid line.  Balances savoury elements against the ripeness.
91/100 – Matthew Hemming MW

The 2021 Rully Clos de Chaigne 1er Cru Blanc, matured in 25% new oak, has a lovely bouquet with fine delineation, much more mineralité than the Clos la Folie and apple blossom and wet limestone scents. The palate is fresh and vibrant on the entry, with hints of rosewater complementing the citrus fruit and ample weight and persistence on the finish. Excellent.
90-92pts – Neal Martin

Rully 1er Cru Clos St Jacques
$390 per case (1×6) OC (inc GST $421.20 )
Insular and tightly coiled.  Rich, vinous and slightly herbal, with those latter notes bringing extra complexity.  Lots of matter and density, also quite a marked saline element.
92/100 – Matthew Hemming MW

The 2021 Rully Clos St. Jacques 1er Cru was picked in two hours since they lost 84% of the crop due to frost. It has a taut nose, more backward than the Clos de Chaigne, opening with orchard fruit and light limestone scents. The palate is well balanced with fine concentration, vibrant with a distant tang of marmalade, a little candied towards the satisfying finish. Wonderful…but so little of it!
91-93pts – Neal Martin

Domaine Jean-Michel Gaunoux 2021 
Meursault
$540 per case (1×6) OC (inc GST $y583.20)
A clear Meursault style but with a significant intensity and muscle.  White blossom and some honey hints.  Markedly mineral and driven for its level.  Needs more time to coallesce but has plenty of promise and density.
90-92pts – Matthew Hemming MW
From four parcels that are normally vinified separately but were done together this year, the 2021 Meursault Village has a clean and pure bouquet with yellow fruit, toasted walnut and faint, dried flower scents. The palate is well balanced with fine extract on the entry and a keen line of acidity. It’s fresh and vibrant with a saline, almost Puligny-like finish. Classy Meursault.
90-92pts – Neal Martin

Meursault 1er Cru Goutte d’Or
$780 per case (1×6) OC (inc GST $842,40)
Intense and spicy, with accompanying sweetness but also a fleshy character and airy brightness.  Long, racy and still with plenty of mid-palate density.  Has real weight for the vintage.
91-93pts – Matthew Hemming MW

The 2021 Meursault Goutte d’Or 1er Cru has a touch of menthol on the nose, quite complex with fine delineation, orange pith and lemon zest becoming more prominent with aeration. The palate is well-balanced, fairly linear and tensile. There’s a fine line of acidity, but maybe it just needs to “kick on” towards the finish. Instead, it prefers to play it a bit safe compared to other cuvées.
90-92pts – Neal Martin

Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrieres
$960 per case (1×6) OC (inc GST $1036.80)
Many more layers and degrees of complexity than previous wines.  Creamy on the mid-palate but still with a tensile frame of mineral structure.  Some mint tones on the back end.  Cleansing, long and pure.
93-95pts – Matthew Hemming MW

The 2021 Meursault Les Perrières 1er Cru has a lilting bouquet with white peach, honeysuckle and light hazelnut aromas, fine delineation and focus. The palate has a twist of orange rind on the entry, quite tangy and lively, maybe just missing a little mineralité towards the finish in context of the vineyard, yet there is impressive persistence and tension throughout.
92-94pts – Neal Martin

Pommard Les Perrieres
$480 per case (1×6) OC (inc GST $518.40)
Light, lifted and perfumed with crisp berry fruit.  In addition to the structure of the Volnay there’s a bit more creaminess and succulence in the middle.  Succulent, juicy and fine.
90-92pts – Matthew Hemming MW

The 2021 Pommard Village, which comes from five parcels, has a gorgeous, beautifully defined bouquet with pure red fruit, perhaps more Volnay in style than Pommard? The palate is slightly candied on the entry with blood orange-infused red fruit; it’s quite spicy with a structured and persistent finish. Excellent.
90-92pts – Neal Martin

Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chenes
$600 per case (1×6) OC (inc GST $648)
Has a gentle, briary spice tone.  The palate is very slightly brambly with some gently peppery tones coming through on the mid-palate.  Holds it very well.  Crisp and lifted.  Chalky tannins on the finish.
89-91pts – Matthew Hemming MW

The 2021 Volnay Clos des Chênes 1er Cru has a very pure and perfumed strawberry and red cherry-scented nose, lots of Pinoté here. Seductive. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, quite edgy and saline in the mouth, though I just seek a little more complexity on the finish. Still, it should give a decade of drinking pleasure.
87-89pts – Neal Martin

Terms & Conditions:
Offer ends on Monday 23rd January l No further discount l Immediate payment required l Delivery fees ($32.40) waived for purchases above $500 before GST excluding airports | Cancellation of orders not allowed l Order/s to be collected/delivered within 1 month upon stock availability l Offered Ex-Singapore & subject to remaining unsold​

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