2014 Etienne Sauzet, Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru, Les Perrieres 3x150cl

Wine Advocate 91-93

The 2014 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru les Perrieres has a terroir-driven, mineral-rich bouquet, flint and cold limestone. The palate is fresh and saline on the entry, good density here with a little more spiciness than Sauzet’s other premier crus. There is an edginess here, tensile and animated with impressive weight on the finish. This is very fine and probably deserves 2-3 years in the cellar. This is one of the domaine’s best premier crus in 2014. Winemaker Benoit Riffault has quietly steered Etienne Sauzet towards more consistency and pedigree. Bottles from the 1990s and 2000s were besmirched with premature oxidation issues that tarnished the reputation that had been built up over the years; however, speaking around, it would appear that whilst nothing can ever be guaranteed, there is far more consistency and reliability. And in Benoit they have a talented, often sanguine vigneron who seems adept at taking things in his stride, taking vintages as they come. And I must admit, upon departing the domaine I reflected upon the wines I had tasted and dwelled upon what an impressive portfolio they have accumulated (both from their own vines and contract agreements). Settling down in their tasting room, I first asked Benoit to adumbrate the growing season… "The 2014 vintage was not too difficult compared to 2012 and 2013. We had good flowering and not too much hail in Puligny at the end June. The hail was not too hard and there were dry conditions afterwards. Around July 10 we had some rain and that was good because some of the vines were on the limit [of hydric stress]. After that, August was not so good. However, it improved towards the end. The maturity was good with fine maturity of grapes with no rot. It is a balanced vintage with good fruit, a very Burgundian vintage in the spirit, no more and no less. It is my idea of a classic Burgundy. We started picking on September 11. The whites were put directly into barrel and racked after 12 months, then put into stainless steel to mature on the lees for six months. We have moved to a reductive way [of elevage] that I think allows the wines to age." [Neal Martin, 28/09/2017]

Anticipated maturity: 2018-2032

Vinous 91+

Bright medium yellow, a bit darker than the Referts. Very pure aromas of lemon, soft citrus fruits and hazelnut. Then tightly wound and rather linear in the mouth, with a strong spine of acidity keeping the soft citrus and lemon flavors under wraps in the early going. Finishes drier and more backward than the Referts, perhaps owing to the higher proportion of calcaire and small rocks in this site. [Stephen Tanzer, 09/01/2016]

Anticipated maturity: 2020-2027