2024 Hubert Lamy, Saint-Aubin Premier Cru, Les Frionnes Blanc 6x75cl

Domaine Hubert Lamy: An Overview of a Saint-Aubin Pioneer

Based in the village of Saint-Aubin, Domaine Hubert Lamy is widely recognised as one of the most innovative and quality-driven estates in the Côte de Beaune. While the Lamy family has been growing grapes in Burgundy since 1640, the modern foundation of the property was established by Hubert Lamy in 1973. The estate’s global reputation reached new heights under the visionary direction of Hubert’s son, Olivier Lamy, who joined in 1995. Olivier has revolutionised the property through radical viticultural experiments and meticulous vineyard management. Today, the domain spans roughly 18.5 hectares, primarily in Saint-Aubin, but also stretching into Chassagne-Montrachet, Puligny-Montrachet, and Santenay, and stands as a definitive reference point for high-density planting.

A High-Tension Style of Textural Density and Laser Focus

The winemaking style at Domaine Hubert Lamy is celebrated for its remarkable vertical tension, structural chiselled precision, and intense mineral drive. Olivier Lamy is famous for his pioneering research into ultra-high-density vine planting, with some experimental plots reaching up to 30,000 vines per hectare, three times the Burgundy average. This technique forces the vine roots deeper into the limestone bedrock, producing smaller berries with exceptional natural acidity and extract. In the cellar, the Chardonnays are fermented with native yeasts and aged in larger, neutral 300-litre and 600-litre barrels (demi-muids) to preserve site-specific transparency. The resulting wines are tightly wound, trading on piercing salinity, citrus pith, and a core of rock-solid minerality rather than opulent oak or heavy reduction. Think Coche-Dury and you’re not too far wide of the mark. 

Standard-Setting Quality and Premier Cru Mastery

The extraordinary quality and cult status associated with Domaine Hubert Lamy are anchored by an elite portfolio that has elevated the reputation of the entire Saint-Aubin appellation. The absolute pinnacle of the estate’s high-density project is found in the premier crus of En Remilly and Les Frionnes, alongside the legendary Derrière Chez Edouard. The domain also crafts microscopic quantities of Grand Cru Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet. By drastically limiting yields and rethinkng traditional canopy management to counter climate shifts, the Lamy family achieves profound consistency across varying vintages. These highly allocated, architectural white Burgundies possess immense cellaring potential, built to reward a few years of patience with complex notes of wet stone, white flowers, and deep savory depth.