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Electrifying 2021 white Burgundy from Domaine Chartron

Tasting the 2021s at Domaine Chartron…almost an old-school vintage, with cool fruit and vivid acidity: the type of vintage we knew before global warming.
– Steen Öhman / winehog.com
 

In a cruel instance of feast (tremendous quality) or famine (disastrous yields) Jean-Michel Chartron crafted a sensational range of 2021s, yet suffered near-crippling losses to the frost.  In total production is about 50% of a normal harvest but, as the frost was particularly intense around the prime mid-slope vineyards, amongst Chartron’s top wines the losses are more like 70%.  Some wines Jean-Michel has been unable to produce this year.

On the plus side, this is an electrifying range of white Burgundy.  2021 favoured the production of taut, precise and mineral whites with superb acidity giving a chiselled structure.  This is a year in which Charton’s top wines cry out for cellaring – and Jean-Michel has sensibly switched 100% to Diam corks, to give collectors confidence in ageing his wines.

Vinum’s allocation had to be reduced this year – there is no Puligny Folatieres and no Montrachet – but, after our tasting in Puligny Montrachet, we sat down with Jean-Michel and he generously increased some of our other allocations.  We were delighted to score a little more Puligny Clos du Cailleret and add (for the first time) some village Chassagne.  The latter wine seriously out-performs in 2021, the blend including about 25% de-classified 1er Cru fruit.

In addition, our tasting of the full range threw into relief the high quality of some of Domaine Chartron’s less prestigious bottlings.  At a time when ‘drinking Burgundy’ is becoming almost as scarce as Grand Crus, we’re thrilled to offer Jean-Michel’s old vine Bourgogne and a delicious Pernand Vergelesses – both for earlier drinking.

With Jean-Michel and his sister Anne-Laure at the helm, this grand old estate is regaining its place amongst the foremost domaines of Puligny Montrachet.  Jean-Michel has become a great friend of Vinum in recent years so we are delighted to open our offers of 2021 Burgundy with his fabulous line up.  As will be the story throughout this vintage, volumes are paltry but the quality is really exciting!

With best wishes,
Matthew Hemming MW
 

The Offer: 
Offered en primeur for delivery later this year.
Due to the vintage conditions, all 2021 Burgundies are subject to allocation.  We aim to confirm orders within one week, with allocations taking into account:

  • Purchases of both en primeur and physical wines over the last 3 years.
  • ‘Across the board’ orders of wines outside of the most sought-after bottlings.
  • Historical purchases of the wines in question.
  • Broader support of Vinum including use of our broking and storage services.

Domaine Jean Chartron 2021 

Bourgogne Chardonnay Vielles Vignes
30 cases (1×6) OC @ $270 per case (inc GST $291.60)
Jean-Michel produced 38 barrels of this out-performing Bourgogne from vineyards within Puligny itself.  It punches well above its appellation in terms of precision and focus – hallmarks of 2021.  Primary but nicely complete on the palate, with generous orchard fruit and a succulence through the middle.  RIcher than you’d expect at the entry level, it finishes mouth-watering and lifted.  (Already in bottle hence confirmed score).
90/100 – Matthew Hemming MW

Pernand Vergelesses
10 cases (1×6) OC @ $450 per case (inc GST $486)
From the lieux-dit of Les Belles Filles, around the back of the Corton hill.  Open and forward fruit with white-stone and fleshy tones, also some pear notes.  Attractive spice perfume.  Fluid and expressive, oak sitting nicely within the wine.  Gains focus through the mid-palate and finishes bright, focused and racy.
90-92pts – Matthew Hemming MW

Saint Aubin 1er Cru Murgers des Dents de Chien
14 cases (1×6) OC @ $660 per case (inc GST $712.80)
Reserved and tight on the nose but palate has a weight and authority of fruit and matter.  Displaying impressive density of savoury / mineral material.  Quite embryonic in contrast to the Saint Aubin Perrieres tasted before.  With air it gains in volume, spice and mineral qualities.  Quite powerful and muscular in its way.  Chalky and intense.
91-94pts – Matthew Hemming MW

Chassagne Montrachet
10 cases (1×6) OC @ $660 per case (inc GST $712.80)
25% of the blend here is young vine fruit from Charton’s recently re-planted Chassagne 1er Cru Caillerets.  Builds and builds into a yellow stone fruit profile.  Generous and fleshy palate impression, quite immediate.  More exotic fruits given the vintage.  Some apricot and even hinting at mango.  Plenty of dry extract and chalky white stone fruit on the back end.
89-91pts – Matthew Hemming MW

Puligny Montrachet
10 cases (1×6) OC @ $690 per case (inc GST $745.20)
Chartron has a trick of combining classic Puligny nuttiness with a very contemporary purity and line.  The village Puligny, blended from numerous parcels, is taut, mineral and lithe.  The fruit is sleek but holds juice, verve and vibrancy.  Has the vitality and vivid quality of 2021.  Lovely mineral freshness on the back end.
90-92pts – Matthew Hemming MW

Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru Vieilles Vignes
8 cases (1×6) OC @ $900 per case (inc GST $972)
100% Hameau de Blagny in 2021 as the other 1er Cru plots that usually contribute to the blend were wiped out by the frost.  Totally treble-led, bright and vivid.  Crystalline and extremely racy – fitting with its Blagny roots.  Slender, chalky and mouth-watering.  Some saline minerality.  Finishes with lots of citric cut and lemon zest notes.  
90-93pts – Matthew Hemming MW

Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru Clos de la Pucelle
6 cases (1×6) OC @ $1,080 per case (inc GST $1,166.40)
All Chartron’s wines are pale in colour but this is the first that I notice being markedly and shimmeringly pale, with green tints.  Spice, mint, sage and herbs.  Very complex and hard to pin down.  Dances with energy, just beyond being able to contain it.  A slimmed down iteration of Pucelles showing more thrust and mineral drive than usual.  Superb texture and structure.
94-96pts – Matthew Hemming MW

Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru Clos du Cailleret
10 cases (1×6) OC @ $1,080 per case (inc GST $1,166.40)
On first pour this is sweeter and creamier than the Pucelles but it tightens up almost straight away.  Insistant and intriguing fragrance.  Sweet, floral and spicy.  The intensity builds layer upon layer.  Quite linear in comparison to Pucelles.  Racy and eye-widening in its freshness.  Complex, layered and electric.
93-96pts – Matthew Hemming MW

Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru
$990 per 3 bottles (inc GST $1,069.20)
Maximum 3 bottles per order
Jean-Michel Chartron was only able to produce a single barrel of Corton Charlemagne in 2021, raised in 2 year old wood.  Plenty of volume, generosity and fleshy.  Some yellow stone fruit tones.  Less muscular and chalky than many Corton Charlemagne.  The tannins and structure bring a freshness to the back of the palate.  Regains a laser-like freshness and tension on the finish.
92-94pts – Matthew Hemming MW

Batard Montrachet Grand Cru
$1,650 per 3 bottles (inc GST $1,782)
Maximum 3 bottles per order
Just 1.5 barrels produced in 2021.  Normally this is a blend of domaine fruit and some bought-in but 2021 is only from the domaine vineyards.  Surprisingly aerial for Batard.  Lifted and fragrant with blossom scents.  Layered, luxuriant and buttery fruits but also with some cut.  The intensity really sneaks up on you here.  Huge class and distinction for Batard – really delineated and precise.  
94-96pts – Matthew Hemming MW

Chevalier Montrachet ‘Clos des Chevaliers’ Grand Cru
$2,100 per 3 bottles (inc GST $2,268)
Maximum 3 bottles per order
The Clos des Chevaliers – Chartron’s most prized monopole – is like a distillation of the Batard in 2021, pushing into citrus butter, spice and delicately ripe fruits.  This is all about the nuance and interplay of subtle light and shade influences combined with the extreme energy of a wine that doesn’t want to be captured and pinned down.  Has the Chevalier spine and cut.  Vivid fruit and intense minerality.
95-97pts – Matthew Hemming MW
Terms & Conditions:
Offer ends on Wednesday 18th January l No further discount l Immediate payment required l Delivery fees ($32.40) waived for purchases above $500 before GST excluding airports | Cancellation of orders not allowed l Order/s to be collected/delivered within 1 month upon stock availability l Offered Ex-Singapore & subject to remaining unsold​

 

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