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Fragrant & expressive 2021s from Heresztyn-Mazzini

We are pleased to make our first offer of 2021 red Burgundy, featuring the wines of Domaine Heresztyn-Mazzini.

Insofar as they have one – I am sure Florence and Simon would laugh at the idea – it is hard to go wrong with the Heresztyn-Mazzini formula:

  • Very old vines, up to 100 years old.
  • Hands on in the vineyard / hands off in the winery (certified organic).
  • Considered use of whole bunches depending on the cru – a maximum of 60% in 2021.
  • Limited use of new oak – topping out at 50% for the Grand Cru this year.
  • Finished wines of moderate alcohol – the 2021s are in the 13-13.5% range.

This is a range that plays to 2021’s strengths in fine-boned Pinot of fragrance and precision.  Florence was particularly keen to preserve the delicacy of the vintage with a very gentle extraction.  The old vines – especially in the 1er Crus of Les Champonnets and Millandes – yield very small millerandage berries, whose higher ratio of skin to juice bolsters the wine’s structure and further complements the use of whole bunch fermentation.

In a tragically small vintage, Heresztyn-Mazzini have been generous in maintaining our Singapore allocation almost bottle-for-bottle at last year’s levels.  Vinum have been cut back by just 12 bottles of Gevrey 1er Cru Goulots and have received a new allocation of the Vieilles Vignes Les Songes village wine.  In addition, whilst we are seeing price increases in excess of 40% from some estates, Florence has held almost all her prices within 10-12% of last year.  

This is almost unprecedented in 2021 Burgundy and I recommend you reward the domaine’s customer-oriented policies by adding some of their superb crus to your cellar.

Bon weekend!
Matthew Hemming MW

 

The Offer: 
Offered en primeur for delivery later this year.
Due to the vintage conditions, all 2021 Burgundies are subject to allocation.  We aim to confirm orders within one week, with allocations taking into account:

  • Purchases of both en primeur and physical wines over the last 3 years.
  • ‘Across the board’ orders of wines outside of the most sought-after bottlings.
  • Historical purchases of the wines in question.
  • Broader support of Vinum including use of our broking and storage services.

Bourgogne Pinot Noir
 @ $330 per case (1×6) OC (inc GST $356.40)
From a single vineyard site within the boundaries of Gevrey Chambertin.  No new oak, 100% de-stemmed to emphasise fruit and keep the tannins supple.  Will be bottled in early February.  Red summer fruits with a distinctly Gevrey earthiness in the background.  Sweet attack, with quite elevated freshness, and a savoury note beneath.  Ripeness is right on the edge with juicy acidity and crunch keeping it balanced on the knife edge.  Bright and snappy early drinking.  
86-89pts – Matthew Hemming MW

Gevrey Chambertin ‘Clos Village’
@ $660 per case (1×6) OC (inc GST $712.80)
From a walled vineyard just behind the winery that I jokingly call the Carpark Clos.  The wines from this site are always notably filigree and scented.  Vines are nearly 70 years old and about 25% whole bunch was used here.  Very elegant, perfumed and delicate.  A fragrant style that is fine-boned and fine-spun.  Definitely a lighter style, and without quite the density or complexity of Jouises but extremely stylish and with very fine texture.  Taut line and impressive finesse.
90-93pts – Matthew Hemming MW

Gevrey Chambertin Vieilles Vignes ‘Les Jouises’
@ $660 per case (1×6) OC (inc GST $712.80)
An old vine village cuvee from vines up to 65 years old.  50% whole bunch.  Suave and sophisticated aromas that are subtle and grown up – this plays at the savoury end of the spectrum with floral and also ferrous tones.  Has an elegance and umami quality through the mid-palate.  Tannins have a silk quality and there’s a peppery note from the stems.  A longer-term prospect than the Clos.
91-93pts – Matthew Hemming MW

Gevrey Chambertin Vieilles Vignes ‘Les Songes’
@ $660 per case (1×6) OC (inc GST $712.80)
A blend from two plots on the Brochon side of Gevrey, to the north of the village.  The vines are 95-100 years old and 60% whole bunches were included.  Deep and glossy fruit expression on the nose – plump, bold and generous.  Quite a full-bodied and ample style – more of breadth than focus.  Succulent fruit with less in terms of nuance and spice.  This is more about raw muscle and power.
90-92pts – Matthew Hemming MW

Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru La Perriere
@ $840 per case (1×6) OC (inc GST $907.20)
A softly-spoken and subtle 1er Cru whose quality is in the length and finesse.  The fruit aromas are very pure and quite plummy.  Pristine and expressive.  On the palate the texture is seamless and satin-like.  Only around 30% whole bunch here and the influence is very subtle.  Has a juicy and scented profile.  Here the structure sits within the fruit rather than dominating as it does in Les Songes.  Has a gentle spice and a twist of tannin on the back.
91-93pts – Matthew Hemming MW

Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Les Goulots
@ $960 per case (1×6) OC (inc GST $1,036.80)
Here there’s a similarity to Perrieres in terms of 30% whole bunch but it has a totally different profile – much more smoky, musky and mineral.  From vines around 40 years old.  There is a touch of reduction but in a completely positive manner.  Great line and energy through the middle, with a markedly Gevrey spine.  Ferrous and earthy, taut and compact, with a deliciously savoury finish.
92-94pts – Matthew Hemming MW

Morey Saint Denis 1er Cru Les Millandes
@ $960 per case (1×6) OC (inc GST $1,036.80)
In Millandes the vines are about 70 years old.  Florence employed 60% whole bunches, like the Champonnets.  Also like Champonnets there were plenty of millerandage berries, adding to the tannic heft.  Musky perfume and dark-toned berry fruits.  A seductive perfume followed by a gorgeous sweetness on the attack.  More red fruit on the palate, with spice and an almost sandalwood tone, that starts to soar on the mid-palate.  Delicately sculpted tannins that are very tender and silken.  There is a firm, savoury quality to the tannin.  Stunningly pure and fragrant berries on the finish.
93-95pts – Matthew Hemming MW

Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Les Champonnets
@ $1,020 per case (1×6) OC (inc GST $1,101.60)
Along with the Morey Millandes this is my pick of the 1er Crus this year.  60% whole bunch and very small berries as a result of millerandage due to vine age and clones.  Very reserved on the nose, almost reticent.  A shy perfume starts to emerge with some air – very subtle and delicate.  Lots of energy on the palate and it drives right through the line with soaring whole bunch spice.  The tannin frame builds across the palate, with a slightly strict aspect.  Has saline and mineral tones on the back end.  Finishes chalky, with crushed raspberry and some dried petal notes.
93-95pts – Matthew Hemming MW

Clos St Denis Grand Cru
@ $2,400 per case (1×6) OC (inc GST $2,592)
The sole Grand Cru saw the domaine’s highest proportion of new barrels in 2021, aged in 50% new oak.  60% whole bunches were employed at fermentation.  New wood brings some toast and spice but there’s also quite exotic fruit-derived spice here.  Sweet, perfumed and musky – an ethereal and scented style – with pure red fruit tones through the middle.  Very long and insistent.
95-97pts – Matthew Hemming MW

Terms & Conditions:
Offer ends on Friday 20th January l No further discount l Immediate payment required l Delivery fees ($32.40) waived for purchases above $500 before GST excluding airports | Cancellation of orders not allowed l Order/s to be collected/delivered within 1 month upon stock availability l Offered Ex-Singapore & subject to remaining unsold​

 

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