Standout Wines From A Few Days in Bordeaux

In March I was lucky enough to spend a few days in Bordeaux with a friend from Singapore.  Our trip was centred around Pomerol and we arranged visits to a number of properties over a couple of days.  Whilst we couldn’t get to everyone – sadly, the Chateau Lafleur team were either busy in the vineyards or in London with their UK importers – we saw a number of benchmark estates.  Here are some of the highlights of what we tasted.

I’ve split the list into two sections: absolute highlights and dark horses – the latter being wines that might not leap out on paper but which over-performed in the glass

Le Pin 2023

Simply magic.  Aromatic fireworks are followed by a sumptuous, totally seamless texture, combining to create a whole that feels like the archetype of Le Pin.  Layers of sweet berry fruit are backed by more savoury earth and truffle notes on the nose.  There is a whisper of oak and some coffee bean tones.  Also hints of smoke and meat, but these feel more terroir- than barrel- derived.  On the palate it is all about the high-luxury, deep-pile texture.  Has some of the energy, volume and scent of a very grand Burgundy.  The 2023 finishes with a sort of flamboyance that lifts it into a different class, ahead of the delicious – but slightly more academic – 2022 tasted immediately beforehand.

99/100

Chateau La Fleur Petrus in the early spring sunshine

Chateau La Fleur Petrus 2019

Coming straight after the 2015 LFP – that wine was explosive but this delivers the precision and intensity of a controlled explosion.  Has a beautifully complex perfume of spice, pepper and black truffles.  On the palate, glossy black fruit sheaths a driving mineral core and there are additional iron and liquorice notes.  The energy and continually evolving complexity are sustained right through to the finish.  This is sensational.

98/100

Vieux Chateau Certan 2018

Alexandre Thienpont showed us the Merlot-led 2015 vintage followed by the 2018, in which VCC is 30% Cabernet Franc.  Immediately the 2018 is much more classical, with the familiar aromatic signature of black pepper and blackberries.  In the background, there is the intoxicating Cabernet Franc scent of spice and musk.  It is fine-grained and suave on the palate, with fine-spun and silky tannins and an invigorating charge of acidity that defies 2018’s reputation.  Becoming floral on the finish, everything here is effortlessly proportioned and balanced.

97/100

Chateau L’Eglise Clinet 2011

I believe the top wines from 2011 have a huge amount to offer and I generally prefer them to the otherwise more popular 2012 wines, so I was delighted when Noemie Durantou pulled this at the end of our tasting.  At 14 years old this is moving into maturity, with delicate black fruit, tobacco and truffle on the nose, that benefits from an attractive high-toned lift.  In many ways, the palate is quite different from the slightly conservative, almost Medocain qualities of the aromas – it is sweeter, more generous, multi-faceted and silky.  The texture takes on a creamy element with air.  L’Eglise Clinet is a delicious 2011, ready for drinking, that finishes fresh and saline, with an oyster shell / nori note.

95/100

L’If 2022

There is a palpable excitement about the 2022s amongst the Bordelais and the wines we tasted showed a vintage that is more than delivering on its early promise now the wines are in bottle.  L’If is a blend of 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc that speaks clearly of its limestone vineyard toward the highest elevation of the Saint Emilion plateau.  The fruit profile is very sleek and cool, with blackberries and spice betraying the Cabernet Franc content.  It is chalky and lithe on the palate, with brightness and plenty of sap and crunch to the texture.  Finishes very saline and mineral, with all the tension and clarity of Saint Emilion’s new-school classicism.

94/100

Blason de l’Evangile 2022

The second wine of Chateau L’Evangile is not seen all that often.  I’ve been enjoying older bottles from my cellar so asked if we could taste a recent vintage when we visited the chateau.  The 2022 is 18% Cabernet Franc with Merlot making up the balance.  It has a nose of bright berry fruit, with some violet notes in the background.  Cool and silky on the palate, with very ripe cherry and black cherry characters.  There is no new oak in this vintage and the fruit profile is very glossy and assured – no concessions are being made to being a second wine!  Despite all its flesh there’s a nice charge of acidity and freshness bringing a sense of precision to the finish.

91/100