Burgundy 2022: great value from Rully & stylish Gevrey Chambertin
Today’s instalment in our 2022 Burgundy festival spans the length of the Cote d’Or, from Rully in the far south to Gevrey Chambertin towards the north of the Cote de Nuits. We are also delighted to be featuring wines from two of the leading ladies of our Burgundy portfolio:
- Clemence Dubrulle of Domaine de la Folie
- Florence Heresztyn-Mazzini from the eponymous Gevrey domaine.
Whilst I am sure Folie’s Clos St Jacques will catch your eye for its famous name, please do not overlook their sensational Aligote – from the high quality Aligote d’Oree clone – or the lip-smacking unoaked red from their Clos de Bellecroix vineyard.
The friendship between Vinum and Domaine Heresztyn-Mazzini was sealed when Florence and her husband spent a weekend with us in Singapore – hosting tastings, wine dinners and sharing late night suppers in hawker centres.
This 5.5-hectare domaine is farmed according to biodynamic practices, to capture the essence of their terroir and old vines in their wines. In 2022 localised storms hit Gevrey, there was so much rain it was challenging to get tractors into the vineyards. Nevertheless, Florence and Simon have produced wines of great energy and exuberance. Alcohol levels are moderate this year, with everything below 13.5%, use of new oak is down a bit and whole bunch fermentation increased (depending on the cru).
Our tasting at Heresztyn-Mazzini coincided with one of their early bottling runs of 2022 and we took the opportunity to reserve some magnums. Gevrey Clos Village en magnumwill be brilliant for parties in just a few years; those after slightly grander large formats should look to the 1er Cru Les Perrieres – but be quick, we only have very few!
Very best wishes,
Matthew Hemming MW
Offered en primeur, available ex-SG in late 2024. Some wines may be subject to purchasing restrictions or allocation.
Domaine de la Folie
Bourgogne Aligote 2022
$240 per case (1×6) OC (w/ GST $261.60)
Domaine de la Folie boast old vines of the superior clone of this variety, Aligote d’Oree – just like Volnay’s famous Domaine Lafarge. The old plants yield a small crop of tiny berries, which translates to elevated intensity. The acid of Aligote is great foil for the vintage – bright and zesty. The palate is intense, mineral and vivid, finishing with a mouth-watering salinity.
91/100 – Matthew Hemming MW
The 2022 Bourgogne Aligoté sports a snazzy retro label to reflect the century-old vines and the fact that these are Aligoté d’Orée. The delightful bouquet has delineated apricot and orange pith scents and hints of nectarine. The palate is well-balanced with impressive weight and a light resinous texture. It’s precisely what one looks for in an Aligoté without having to pay a fortune for the pleasure.
88/100 – Neal Martin / Vinous
Rully Clos la Folie 2022
$300 per case (1×6) OC (w/ GST $327)
Same vineyard as the Aligote. Sweet, gentle and charming fruit. All stainless steel but lees work has built texture into the mid-palate. Orchard fruit with a touch of orange blossom. Succulent and appealing. Will deliver gorgeous early drinking.
90/100 – Matthew Hemming MW
The 2022 Rully Blanc Clos La Folie, which comes from the same block as the Aligoté, offers lemon curd and yellow plum scents, quite aromatic for a Chardonnay. The palate is well-balanced with a taut line of acidity (although the Aligoté has higher levels). This is a Chardonnay with fine nervosité and a dab of stem ginger on the finish. Very fine and saline.
89/100 – Neal Martin
Rully 1er Cru Clos St Jacques 2022
$390 per case (1×6) OC (w/ GST $425.10)
A more chalky and mineral expression of the vintage. Some oak aromas on the nose bring sweetness and some spice complexity. Gorgeous honey tones on the mid-palate, alongside white stone fruits, which builds in volume. Chalky, crunchy structure on the finish with a puff of lemon powder.
93/100 – Matthew Hemming MW
The 2022 Rully Clos St. Jacques 1er Cru comes from shallow soils and has a richer bouquet than the Clos de Chaigne. Wild mint and fennel scents permeate the citrus fruit, hints of wild peach emerging with time. The palate is well-balanced with a keen thread of acidity. It is lively and poised, quite minerally, with lemongrass veins and crushed stone on the finish. Impressive depth and persistence, this is a strong follow-up to the excellent 2021 last year.
91-93pts – Neal Martin
Rully Clos de Bellecroix 2022
$300 per case (1×6) OC (w/ GST $327)
Very fresh and juicy. Some of the weight of 2022 but also lift and grace. The crisp red fruit is deliciously crunchy, expressive and succulent. There’s lovely spice on the back end. A really exuberant mouthful of juicy Pinot.
90/100 – Matthew Hemming MW
The 2022 Rully Clos de Bellecroix comes from a vineyard outside Chagny with a north/northeast orientation and is predesigned to be a gourmand Pinot Noir without any barrel influence. The lovely nose offers freshly picked raspberry and wild strawberry fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with gentle grip, impressive weight, and dark berries laced with a very slight flintiness towards the finish. Absolutely delicious and perfect for drinking over the next five to eight years.
90/100 – Neal Martin
Domaine Heresztyn-Mazzini
Bourgogne Pinot Noir ‘Champ Franc’ 2022
$360 per case (1×6) OC (w/ GST $392.40)
The only wine in the range to be 100% de-stemmed and, like everything else, is under 13.5% alcohol. Froma single vineyard plot, in Gevrey, called Champ Franc which will now be named on the label. Sweet and charming summer fruit profile. Fragrant and juicy, with just enough sappy acidity to bring lift. Finishes with a light crunch. Evolves to a more raspberry profile with air.
87-88pts – Matthew Hemming MW
Soft wood sets off the fresh and ripe aromas of red and dark pinot fruit along with a whiff of earth. The delicious middleweight flavors possess an appealing sense of vibrancy while exhibiting reasonably good length on the mildly rustic finish. To enjoy young.
86-88pts – Allen Meadows / Burghound
Gevrey Chambertin ‘Clos Village’ 2022
$660 per case (1×6) OC (w/ GST $719.40)
$240 per magnum (w GST $261.60)
** Only a limited number of magnums available **
A strikingly lifted and delicate expression of Gevrey. Very pretty but with a distinct richness on the mid-palate. Lots of fruit and very fine, gentle structure. Rounded and plush, with an aerial quality from the whole bunch. The acid is deceptive but there’s a fine thread at the core. Approximately 50% whole bunch here and vines dating from 1952.
88-91pts – Matthew Hemming MW
Very pretty aromas include those of purple fruit, spice, floral top notes and an admirably subtle whiff of wood toast. The elegant and refined medium weight flavors possess a lilting mouthfeel that is quite supple though the lingering bitter pit fruit-inflected finish tightens up sufficiently to suggest that 6 to 8 years of aging is in order.
88-91pts – Allen Meadows
Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Les Goulots 2022
$1,080 per case (1×6) OC (w/ GST $1,177.20)
50% whole bunch. From an up-slope Cru this has a cool, floral profile. Whole bunch spice compliments red berry fruit. This is altogether a more spicy expression that has clear Gevrey traits of iron, earth and savoury tones. Scented and elegant. Has real precision and edgy tension. This cool terroir works beautifully in 2022. Significant length.
92-94pts – Matthew Hemming MW
Matured with 50% whole bunches, the 2022 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Goulots 1er Cru has a complex, engaging bouquet: a mixture of red and black fruit, white pepper and fennel. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grain tannins, very elegant in style, and beautifully balanced as it fans out towards the finish. Impressive in terms of precision, a Gevrey that really benefitted from its cooler microclimate.
92-94pts – Neal Martin
Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Les Perrieres 2022
$400 per magnum (w GST $436)
** Only a limited number of magnums available **
50% whole bunches and 25-30% new oak. In some ways a return to the more pretty and elegant style of the domaine – like Clos Village – with a less prominent structure than Les Songes. However, there’s a very impressive sense of energy through the mid-palate that works in counterpoint to the density of fruit. Plenty of plush, plump aspects to the fruit but it’s not heavy. Finish is full and broad.
90-92pts – Matthew Hemming MW
Mid crimson. Quite an elegant nose, floral rose notes, 50% whole bunch vinification, as well as some graceful red fruit. The oak is a little present at the finish but that will integrate and the fruit is very classy. Finesse and some tensile strength, but nothing too powerful. A good juicy aftertaste. Drink from 2030-2037.
91-94pts – Jasper Morris MW
Morey Saint Denis 1er Cru Les Millandes 2022
$1,080 per case (1×6) OC (w/ GST $1,177.20)
90% whole bunches and 70+ year old vines. Big and impactful but also very mineral and savoury. There’s no excess of ripeness or fat here. It’s sleek, muscled and spare. Serious. Rides on acidity through the mid-palate, with tight berry fruit. Has waves of fruit and energy. Whilst it needs plenty of time, it’s also very expressive. With more air it really starts to motor and kick up on the finish.
93-95pts – Matthew Hemming MW
Here the wood treatment is much more subtle on the aromas of both red and dark currant that also display a broad range of floral nuances. I very much like the mouthfeel of the caressing but punchy large-scaled flavors that exhibit impressive power on the equally robust and serious finale that is even firmer. Fine quality here in a decidedly built-to-age package.
90-93pts – outstanding – Allen Meadows
Clos Saint Denis Grand Cru 2022
$2,700 per case (1×6) OC (w/ GST $2,943)
** Maximum one case per client; to be ordered with other Heresztyn-Mazzini wines **
50% new oak and 90% whole bunch. Sweet spice, musk and some toast on the nose. Dark raspberry tones and almost a sorbet or coulis quality to the fruit. Plenty of volume and a dryness to the texture that’s partly a function of wood but without being at all planky or oaky. Savoury and becoming more structural on the back end.
92-94pts – Matthew Hemming MW
A fine bright purple. The nose is solid and concentrated, in a forward style of raspberry fruit. There is a wealth of fruit on the palate though not as seductive as Clos St-Denis can be, but all in balance and with an agreeably long finish. A really sensible, poised, approach to winemaking. 80% whole bunch vinification hardly shows, while 50% new oak feels about right. Drink from 2032-2040.
94-97pts – Jasper Morris MW
Terms & Conditions
Offer ends on Wednesday 28th February 2024 l No further discount l Immediate payment required l Delivery fees ($32.72) waived for purchases above $500 before GST excluding airports | Cancellation of orders not allowed l Orders to be collected/delivered within 3 months upon stock availability l Offered Ex-Singapore & subject to remaining unsold