Fete du Bourgogne: value does still exist in the Cote d'Or!

Browsing merchants’ offers and restaurant wine lists it might feel as value has departed the villages of Burgundy but that is not entirely true.  In the case of Domaine Rene Bouvier, value can be found almost on the doorstep of Gevrey Chambertin – otherwise one of the most prestigious and expensive addresses on the Cote.

The Rene Bouvier estate is not a hot new name, but an established 3rd generation domaine of an impressive 30-hectares.  Bernard Bouvier, rather than being a maverick young winemaker, took over from his father back in 1992.  It is actually an estate I had visited and bought in the past, but things have clearly changed and I was eager to reacquaint myself with the wines.

It was a phone call from one of the team at Domaine Leroy that tipped me off to the resurgent quality at Bouvier.  Gilles told me that he bought the wines for his personal cellar each year and that I thought I might want to check them out for myself.  Frankly, when a Leroy number flashes up on my phone, I always take the call and a tip like this was a very exciting recommendation.
 

It took me a while to appreciate just how good Bernard Bouvier’s wines are these days. In a quiet way he has been fine tuning his offer, moving more in the direction of whole bunch vinification and indeed several no added sulphur cuvées, while working with sufficient care and attention to avoid any deviations in the wines.
– Jasper Morris MW / Inside Burgundy

Whilst Bernard Bouvier has been at the helm of the domaine for nearly 30 years, he has overseen an ongoing and considered evolution in pursuit of quality.  This has included a new winery, in 2006, to accommodate larger barrel sizes and ‘concrete egg’ tanks, and a move towards full organics beginning in 2009.

We are delighted to be offering the 2020 vintage as part of our Fete du Bourgogne.  Quality in 2020 is extremely high, with fresh, expressive and perfumed wines up and down Bernard’s range.  In particular, I was interested in wines from Marsanny and Fixin – villages that have benefitted from global warming and now provide rich hunting grounds for those seeking wines of authenticity and value. 

Bouvier’s Marsannay Le Finage is an over-achieving introduction to the range.  Fixin Crais de Chene would stand proud next to many domaine’s Gevrey village.  The white wine, Marsannay Le Clos Blanc, has a structure and mineral spine that’s redolent of Chablis 1er Cru.  The single vineyard Marsannay Clos du Roy should be regarded as a pretty serious 1er Cru.

The Offer:
Offered subject to remaining unsold.  Available in Singapore in Q3 2023.

Marsannay Le Finage 2020

$330 per case of 6 OC (w/GST $356.40)

Le Finage is the name Bernard gives to his cuvée ronde covering various locations across the appellation. Mid purple, the nose has a little more precision than Montre-Cul, with what could be a pyrazine note, but is the whole bunches showing much more in this wine. Good intensity, excellent fresh finish from the acidity, perhaps a little sourness from the stems, which should soon play out, otherwise dark raspberry fruit, and certainly length. A little tangerine touch to finish.

87-88pts – Jasper Morris MW

Entry level Marsannay.  Some earth and mushroom notes over full, plump fruit that’s just starting to evolve.  Lovely, deeply-pitched intro to the range – very accessible.  Sufficient succulence to keep it fresh..  Some floral characters and attractive lift on the finish.

90/100 – Matthew Hemming MW

Fixin Crais de Chene 2020

$360 per case of 6 OC (w/GST $388.80)

Exhibiting aromas of smoky, plummy fruit, orange rind and spices, Bouvier’s 2020 Fixin Crais de Chêne is medium to full-bodied, ample and lively, with supple tannins and a saline finish. It’s a round, charming rendition of the appellation.

89/100 – William Kelley / The Wine Advocate

This does not come from the same plot as the sulphur free wine, though with the same downwash soil, so there are plenty of stones. Lighter in colour, with a more reductive nose. There is massive intensity on the palate, dark raspberry and a touch of blackcurrant, more intensity in the mouth and a fine long finish with some spice.

90-92pts & 5-star wine – Jasper Morris MW

Marsannay En Ouzeloy 2020

$360 per case of 6 OC (w/GST $388.80)

The 2020 Marsannay En Ouzeloy reveals aromas of rich berry and cassis fruit mingled with hints of peonies and spices. Medium-bodied, rich and lively, it’s a charming, elegant wine that will drink well young.

89/100 – William Kelley

Medium deep purple, not quite clear. The bouquet is on the softer side, not quite showing precision thanks to a slightly reductive note. Racy fresher raspberries on the palate, slightly thicker tannins, not together today but if this comes into place it will deserve more. The limestone scree gives an elegant touch here, notes Bernard, and we may see that once the wine settles down.

87-89pts – Jasper Morris MW

Marsannay Clos du Roy 2020

$420 per case of 6 OC (w/GST $453.60)

The 2020 Marsannay Clos du Roy bursts with aromas of peonies, orange rind, plummy fruit and spices. Medium to full-bodied, ample and perfumed, it’s seamless and charming, with melting tannins and an expansive finish.

90/100 – William Kelley

The Bouvier block is in the sector known as Pau next to Laurent Fournier. Fine even purple, with a lush note to the nose, floral as well. Somewhere between optimum and maximum ripeness, but encouragingly nearer the former. I love the backbone to this and the freshness.

89-91pts – Jasper Morris MW

Gevrey Chambertin Racine du Temps 2020

$720 per case of 6 OC (w/GST $777.60)

Bouvier produced 16 barrels of the 2020 Gevrey-Chambertin Racine du Temps, a cuvée derived from old vines that are mostly situated in the commune of Brochon. Offering up aromas of dark berries, spices, orange rind and rose petals, it’s medium to full-bodied, lively and perfumed, with powdery tannins and a long, saline finish.

91/100 – William Kelley

En Créot is the main source but this is a multiple terroir, old vine cuvée. A dark brooding garnet crimson colour. The bouquet goes to another level and it is obvious that alongside the floral top notes there is a wealth of fruit to follow. Obviously whole bunch in style, but gives terrific pleasure. Sensual and spicy but above all with dark fruit intensity. If you like Jamet or Jasmin Côte Rôtie you will like this. Small millerand grapes. 

92-94pts & 5-star wine – Jasper Morris MW

Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Combe au Moine 2020

$960 per case of 6 OC (w/GST $1,036.80)

Not tasted by either WK or JM

An overtly floral-suffused nose freely offers up an airy but ripe mix of plum, black raspberry, kirsch and earth. The sleek, vibrant and muscular bigger-bodied flavors also flash plenty of minerality on the compact, moderately austere and solidly persistent finish. Like the Champeaux, this is sufficiently compact and tightly wound to need at least half a dozen years of forbearance first.

90-93pts – outstanding – Allen Meadows / Burghound

2020 Rene Bouvier, Marsannay Les Clos Blanc

$330 per case of 6 OC (w/GST $356.40)

The 2020 Marsannay Blanc Le Clos reveals aromas of pear, fresh bread, white flowers and beeswax. Medium to full-bodied, with tangy acids and a saline finish, it’s produced from vines in the commune of Couchey.

87/100 – William Kelley

Bright aromas of green apple and prominent citrus elements complement the racy, intense and delicious medium weight flavors that culminate in a clean and bone-dry finish that is not especially complex. This might add depth with a year or two of bottle aging though the potential aging curve is fairly short.

87-89pts – Allen Meadows

Terms & Conditions:

Offer ends on Monday 31st July 2023 l No further discount l Immediate payment required l Delivery fees ($32.40) waived for purchases above $500 before GST excluding airports | Cancellation of orders not allowed l Order/s to be collected/delivered within 1 month upon stock availability l Offered Ex-Singapore & subject to remaining unsold