Champagne Pertois-Moriset
2018 Mono-Village Cramant, Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru
SGD $600 ($654 incl. GST) per case (6*75cl OC) – 15 cases available
Light-of-foot, sweet and floral Chardonnay. The most ethereal and brightest of the Mono-Village cuvees. Shows a kiss of oak on the nose but this is bringing nuance and complexity, and is very finely integrated. Has a mid-palate of layered complexity and finesse. A classical expression of Cramant, with citrus blossom and apple notes. It’s a very pure and lithe style of Chardonnay with a chalky, almost minty, finish. Texture is filled out with some of the oak influence of partial barrel fermentation and the ripness of 2018 compensates for the low dosage. A bright line of acidity gives a vivid quality. Long, lifted and taut.
93/100 – Matthew Hemming MW
2018 Mono-Village Chouilly, Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru
SGD $630 ($686.70 incl. GST) per case (6*75cl OC) – 15 cases available
A brighter, more aerial style than the Oger with yellow orchard fruits and some blossom. Led by treble top notes. Very long, sleek and linear. This has a marginally deeper colour than the Cramant, which matches the riper, richer style of the wine. This warmer terroir, in combination with the vintage style, brings a more luxurious, creamy and opulent style. The texture is really generous, rounded and deluxe yet the style is for blocked malo so this is entirely fruit-derived. Without any excesses yet has a very delicate accent of fine patisserie, nodding to the lees ageing. Complex through the middle, with some floral and heady blossom scent, there’s such a sense of composure and self-assured balance – it doesn’t try hard at all but is effortlessly gorgeous.
95/100 – Matthew Hemming MW
2018 Mono-Village Oger, Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru
SGD $630 ($686.70 incl. GST) per case (6*75cl OC) – 15 cases available
Extra Brut, Blanc de Blancs. Surprisingly deeply-pitched fruit for Chardonnay, like dark red apples. A more brooding and powerful style but with lots of mid-palate energy. Grass, hay, toast and grilled nuts on the nose. This is pretty powerful and assertive stuff. There is really excellent energy and drive on the palate – more than sufficient to balance what could otherwise be almost top-heavy flavour profile. For a Blanc de Blancs this is a dramatic and powerful style that doesn’t pull punches. Grippy and saline on the finish. It is only at the very end that you realise this is extremely dry and low-dosage – yet it’s entirely passed you by because there’s so much density and flavour. Saline and structured on the finish.
94/100 – Matthew Hemming MW
2016 Lieux Dits Les Hautes Mottes, Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru
SGD $660 ($719.40 incl. GST) per case (6*75cl OC) – 15 cases available
The most fragrant and pretty of the Lieux Dit releases. Layered, aromatic and finely sculpted. Again, it is bone dry but holds a sweetness throughout. The fruit profile turns darker and more serious from the mid-palate. With air this builds more freshly baked bread and yeast notes. Has a very impressive sense of detail and complexity, with floral and fruit characters that are attractively accented and picked out by the acidity. Gorgeous lemon butter tones of Chardonnay, with an engaging (fruit) sweetness through the line. The lees character is familiar from the 2015 but this is less dark-toned and roasted. Finishes with grilled nuts. This is very much in a gourmand style and I’d love to see it with a big flat fish grilled over wood or a high-grade roast chicken.
94/100 – Matthew Hemming MW
2016 Lieux Dits Les Jeamprins, Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru
SGD $660 ($719.40 incl. GST) per case (6*75cl OC) – 14 cases available
**Limited to 2 cases per person**
The Lieux Dits cuvees are all Blanc de Blancs from Le Mesnil Sur Oger. Bone dry – this is Brut Nature – but showing sufficient textural richness from maturity, oak and lees to ride this out with aplomb. Silky and fine. Starts to fan out and broaden on the back palate. Seriously impressive. There’s a persistent inner sweetness and perfume, and it’s starting to evolve some truffle tones. Evolved, mature, complex and broad yet holding masses of freshness. Just in a great place for drinking now. Has some of the honeycomb sweetness coming from both age and extended lees contact. This totally masks the lack of dosage, yet there’s a telling tension on the finish. Some orange blossom and truffle through the mid-palate. Looking at the notes on my spreadsheet immediately above this – I’d much rather have this in my glass than Dom Perignon 2015! Finishes with plenty of power and some nougat character.
95/100 – Matthew Hemming MW
2016 Lieux Dits Les Jutees, Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru
SGD $690 ($752.10 incl. GST) per case (6*75cl OC) – 15 cases available
**Limited to 2 cases per person**
This plot of Chardonnay was planted in 1979. Has a delicate scent with notes of butter and citrus blossom. It is less demonstrative than others in the range but has real authority and drive on the palate. Builds in richness and volume with air. Acidity is giving grip and a cleansing freshness. Starts to kick nicely on the back end. Holds a spellbinding balance between richness and austerity – somehow the zero dosage is totally transparent here but without being at all punishing. Maturity fills out the middle but there’s still no spare fat on the bones. Really long, taut and complex. Lovely spice and cut. Floral and layered with a superb, delicate texture. Am probably being over-excited with my score but I can’t see it’s worth less…!
97/100 – Matthew Hemming MW
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