Domaine Drouhin-Laroze 2020

Domaine Drouhin-Laroze boasts no fewer than six Grand Crus, from a 0.12-hectare sliver of Musigny to a whopping 1.49ha of Bonnes Mares and 1.39ha of Clos de Beze.  A bit like Coquard-Loison-Fleurot, featured in our Fete du Bourgogne last week, Drouhin-Laroze is something of an upside down domaine: their 5.21ha of Grand Cru holdings out-weighing their 4.4ha of village level vineyards.

In a parallel with another estate featured last week, Domaine Duroche, Nicolas Drouhin and sister Caroline have been steering their wines in a different direction from their father.  There has been no violent shift in style, Nicolas and Caroline have always been respectful of Philippe’s work and welcomed his input, but the new generation have made incremental changes to refine and polish the Drouhin-Laroze wines.

Today Domaine Drouhin-Laroze employs lighter extraction techniques, a proportion of whole bunch fermentation and less new oak.  The resulting wines have more aromatic complexity, greater terroir expression and finer, silkier tannins than was the case in the past.

In a few short years Vinum have built a close and warm relationship with this large Gevrey estate.  Last year we led a deep dive into their top wines, sacrificing an assortment case of Grand Crus to explore the full range with clients over dinner in Singapore.  Caroline was so excited to receive repots and photos of the event.

Today we are offering the last bottles of our 2020 allocation along with our stocks of Domaine Drouhin-Laroze’s 2021s.  2020 is well established as a great vintage for red Burgundy.  2021 is a year in which Nicolas and Caroline were really put to the test and demonstrated their skill.  As Neal Martin comments in his article about the 2021 vintage.

They really excel with the Clos de Vougeot and a splendid Chambertin Clos-de-Bèze

– Neal Martin / Vinous

Those who attended our dinner last year can attest to the quality of Drouhin-Laroze’s Grand Crus.  As we have very little 2020 remaining we are offering these by the single bottle.  With the 2021s we have sufficient stock to offer 6-packs of Grand Crus.  Please note that, for each vintage, we request an order of a single case of village wine in order to access the Grand Crus.  A single case of Gevrey village qualifies you for any quantity of Grand Cru, from the same vintage, up to the maximum purchase quantity for each wine.

No longer a sleeping giant, resting on the laurels of its prestigious vineyards, Domaine Drouhin-Laroze is now fulfilling its potential and has become a force to be reckoned with in Gevrey.

Very best wishes,
Matthew Hemming MW

The Offer:

Offered subject to remaining unsold.  2020 wines immediately available in Singapore; 2021 will be shipped and available in Q3 2023.

Limited availability, please note the purchase restrictions and the requirement to buy one case of village wine to access the Grand Crus of the same year.

2020 vintage

Gevrey Chambertin Dix Climats 2020
$540 per case (1×6) OC (w/GST $583.20)
Maximum 6 bottles per customer

Slight reduction at first but blows off quickly, leaving pure and brambly fruit with a distinctly Gevrey ‘wild’ edge.  Gains in purity in the glass, with air, and develops a black cherry note.  Sleek and quite spherical on the palate, it’s clearly the best vintage of this cuvee I’ve ever tasted at this stage.  Tannins are silky and reach to the back of the palate.  Not complex but juicy, fruit-led and pure with lovely clean lines and a gentle freshness.  Surprisingly persistent finish.

89-91pts – Matthew Hemming MW

The 2020 Gevrey-Chambertin “Dix Climats”, matured in 40% new oak, has a bold, almost Chambolle-like bouquet, quite pure with touches of blue fruit emerging with time. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins and is fleshy with fine acidity. This is one of Drouhin-Laroze’s most plush wines this year, and probably only needs two or three years in bottle.

89/100 – Neal Martin / Vinous

Gevrey Chambertin En Combes 2020
$600 per case (1×6) OC (w/GST $648)
Maximum 6 bottles per customer

The nose is more expressive than the En Champs with some spice and classic ferrous notes of Gevrey.  As before, it doesn’t best respond to swirling and is better left alone to blossom in the glass.  As would be expected of the higher altitude vineyards, there is a crisper line of acid and it has much more of a structural spine.  This gives impressive energy through the core, especially for a village wine.  Some floral and blossom notes – peonies – alongside red berry fruit.  Fans out with spicy characters on the back palate.  This has lots to offer and is solidly at 1er Cru level.

90-93pts – Matthew Hemming MW

En Combes is a big plot with older vines separated out for the first time. 30% whole bunch vinification. Fine fresh purple with a slight spicy nose on top of raspberry fruit. Plenty of energy here, spicier finish, and decent acidity.

90-92pts – Jasper Morris MW / Inside Burgundy

Purchases of 2020 Grand Crus tied to the purchase of 1 case (1×6) 2020 village wineie: 6 bottles of Gevrey village to quality for any quantity of 2020 Grand Cru up to the maximum purchase

Chapelle Chambertin Grand Cru 2020
$220 per bottle (w/GST $237.60)
Maximum 2 bottles per customer

The 2020 Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru has an expressive bouquet with pure wild strawberry, red cherry and bergamot scents, quite mineral-driven, touches of Earl Grey in the background. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, quite saline and poised with a pretty, understated finish. Very fine, but I have a nagging feeling it could have given more, especially after having tasted the same wine from Domaine Dugat.

92/100 – Neal Martin

Half has been pulled out and replanted in 2021. Dense purple, quite ripe, plenty of energy though as well. A dark purple sort of fruit, 30% whole bunch vinification keeps the wine lively while the 80% new wood currently marks it a bit, but leaves no aggressive wood tannins.

93-95pts – Jasper Morris MW

Clos Vougeot Grand Cu 2020
$225 per bottle (w/GST $243)
Maximum 2 bottles per customer

Oak spice, dark toned fruits and floral qualities here all in a fleshy, juicy, ripe package.  You can sense the energy of this wine from the nose alone.  It is large-scaled on the palate and has immediate drama and volume but balanced by sufficient acidity to be fresh and vivid.  The tannins of Clos Vougeot are impressively tamed and fine although you certainly sense their presence.  It is scented through the mid-palate with notes of violets, spice and musky red berries.  The finish has a classic black pepper note.  This really demonstrates why there’s such enthusiasm for Clos Vougeot in 2020 and bursts with energy throughout its line.

92-95pts – Matthew Hemming MW

The 2020 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru had the highest sugar levels in this vintage, so this was the first cuvée to be picked on 24 August. It has a very expressive nose, very pure and without any stems, it still imparts an attractive spiciness. The palate is medium-bodied with fine grain tannins, nicely poised with a harmonious and mineral-driven finish. Excellent.

94/100 – Neal Martin

2021 vintage
Gevrey Chambertin Dix Climats 2021
$540 per case (1×6) OC (w/GST $583.20)

Quite tight, almost curranty, fruit profile.  Sweet berries, much more fluid and flooding the palate, as it moves through the line.  Remains surprisingly dark-toned but also juicy.  Very much fruit driven with tannins that just give a twist on the finish.

89-91pts – Matthew Hemming MW

15% whole bunch vinification. The colour is noticeably more robust than the preceding wines, as too is the bouquet, backed a little by new oak (30%) but showing a good intensity of robust raspberry fruit on the nose, which carries through across the palate. This has a good balance between fruit and structure. Drink from 2025-2030.

90-92pts – Jasper Morris MW

Gevrey Chambertin En Combes 2021
$600 per case (1×6) OC (w/GST $648)

Highly perfumed and distinct from the Dix Climats – much more red fruit and greater emphasis on scent.  Red fruit reaches right onto the mid-palate with engaging sweetness and perfume.  Delicate spice tones on the back end.  Very seductive and silky.

91-93pts – Matthew Hemming MW

A solid deep purple. This may show the best balance of the three village Gevreys with a little more weight than En Champs and both greater finesse and persistence. The fruit, which comes from the old vine section of their 2 hectares, hides the oak well. Drink from 2025-2030.

90-92pts – Jasper Morris MW

Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Au Closeau 2021
$780 per case (1×6) OC (w/GST $842.40)
Maximum 6 bottles per customer

Nearly a monople of Drouhin-Laroze.  Until 2004 the fruit of this tiny 0.44ha site was vinified with another 1er Cru – Craipillot.  Deeper soil gives something a quite dense and full.  A very pure cherry note persists throughout.  Succulent and fleshy.  There are spicy top notes and the tannins are crisp and fine knit, despite the soil profile.

90-92pts – Matthew Hemming MW

15% whole bunch vinification and 60% new wood. They always have to do a green harvest here because the pinot selection can be over productive. Medium crimson colour, with quite a light bouquet. A little sucrosity to the strawberry fruit. The 2021 Au Closeau is attractive, but perhaps lacks the extra concentration of a main line 1er Cru. Drink from 2025-2030.

90-92pts – Jasper Morris MW

Purchases of 2021 Grand Crus tied to the purchase of 1 case (1×6) 2021 village wine
ie: 6 bottles of Gevrey village to quality for any quantity of 2021 Grand Cru up to the maximum purchase

Latricieres Chambertin Grand Cru 2021
$1,440 per case (1×6) OC (w/GST $1,555.20)
Maximum 6 bottles per customer

Sweet fruit and some meatiness here.  Vibrant and engaging palate.  Tannins are chalky, with a saline character.  The quality of fruit is impressive right through the line.  Sappy, sweet and just on the right side of ripeness.

92-94pts – Matthew Hemming MW

More depth of colour compared to Chapelle, while the stems show more visibly – 15% this year whereas normally none are used. There is less evident effect of the 75% new wood though. The fruit has more presence right across the palate, with good acidity and the refreshing whole bunch white pepper tingle. Drink from 2026-2033.

92-95pts – Jasper Morris MW

Clos Vougeot Grand Cru 2021
$1,500 per case (1×6) OC (w/GST $1,620)
Maximum 6 bottles per customer

Big, rich and spicy, with huge mid-palate volume and spicy density.  Has a sense of wildness but the tannins have been tamed.  Has some liquorice notes on the back palate and pepper tones.

93-95pts – Matthew Hemming MW

No whole bunches were used in the Clos, which is as usual. Their plot is very well sited in Plante de l’Abbaye and Quartier du Marei Haut. A concentrated mid red purple, with a suggestion of power behind. Red fruit with a darker edge is prolific on the palate, leading through to light tannins at the finish, with a sense of discreet energy. A well-balanced example. Drink from 2027-2034.

92-95pts – Jasper Morris MW

Bonnes Mares Grand Cru 2021
$1,980 per case (1×6) OC (w/GST $2,138.40)
Maximum 6 bottles per customer

A more muscular, assertive style still.  Almost fizzes with energy and drive.  About 15-20% whole bunch but it’s not immediately apparent.  Snappy and fresh.  A more aerial and lively expression than the early Gevrey Grand Crus.  Exciting, fluid and taut.

94-96pts – Matthew Hemming MW

A medium deep crimson in colour. The nose suggests a fair weight of fruit but does not quite want to give it up. Complete, though, on the palate with that Chambolle/Morey dichotomy that adds an earthy weight to Bonnes Mares. A little iron rich touch too. Rather satisfying. The small admixture of whole bunches adds complexity. Drink from 2027-2034.

93-95pts – Jasper Morris MW

Chambertin Clos de Beze Grand Cru 2021
$1,980 per case (1×6) OC (w/GST $2,138.40)
Maximum 6 bottles per customer

Intense and powerfully structured.  Bold, full tannins with a lot of chalky dryness.  The fruit is vivid and red but sheathed in classical Gevrey structure and tension.  Imposing tannins, typical of Beze, and a long crescendo on the finish.

93-96pts – Matthew Hemming MW

20% whole bunch vinification and 80% new wood, plus some green harvesting. A fresh mid purple colour, with a lick of new wood that cannot stop the energy of the fruit from bursting through. Exceptionally juicy with raspberry and alpine strawberries, backed by the perfect level of acidity and refined tannins. This is seamless, delicious! Drink from 2028-2036.

94-96pts – Jasper Morris MW