The vintage is better known for being superb for whites, with a lot of potential still to come from the upper tiers of the classifications, but it is also offering a high level of accessible, drinking pleasure from the reds. This is not just at the generic Bourgogne and Village level either – an excellent Grand Cru, Mazoyeres-Chambertin from Taupenot -Merme (en magnum also!), was on top form at New Year. It was a bountiful harvest, released at prices that we would now consider a snip given the period of considerable release price inflation that followed. It is probably the go-to vintage on a restaurant wine list for the best price/quality/ready to drink now ratio, now known as the PQRR, if anyone is still turning to the Burgundy part of the list!
It was described as an irregular vintage on release, with the right bank performing more consistently than the left, but with plenty of decent wines in the mix. Perhaps the disaster of the vintage as an en primeur campaign (it was over-priced, funnily enough) has caused it to be a bit of a forgotten vintage? On a visit to the region shortly before Christmas our team noticed how many Chateaux proffered their ‘17s, clearly a sign they are now happy to present and promote it. Pichon Baron, Ducru Beaucaillou, Les Carmes Haut Brion, Beausejour Becot and Chateau Margaux all offered their ‘17s and they received glowing reports – the cynics, perhaps fairly, may comment the Bordelais have plenty to sell!
Pomerol performed well in 2017 and indeed Lafleur was the top of the tree for several judges as wine of the vintage. Our very own MW, Matthew Hemming, is effusive in his praise for the wine – but not all of us mortals have tasted it. St. Julien also fared well but it is recommended further research is undertaken before making any purchases as results were variable. Those with 2017s already in their cellars, it’s time to pop a cork or two.
Pichon Baron looks like an attractive option; it is now 10% below its original release price of seven years ago, very well regarded with an average score of 94 points, the cheapest vintage (other than the lowly ’13) on the market, is drinking now and is priced at c. £90 IB per bottle – a lot of pleasing factors.
La Mission Haut Brion 2017 looks interesting too – released at £2,760 per 12 IB in London, this wine is now offered at £1,600. The average score across seven leading critics is 95.4. Galloni writes “Effortless, gracious and wonderfully nuanced, the 2017 simply has it all. What a wine!”
Please see the chart below, can the price fall any further?
And for something in a much lower price bracket, at £230 per 6 IB, La Gaffelière 2017 is worth a look. Easily the cheapest available vintage on the market, both Galloni (“one of the real highlights of this challenging vintage. It is such a gorgeous wine. Don’t miss it.”) and Perrotti-Brown both give this wine a massive 97 points. It has come down 20% since release but seems to be holding this lower level very well.
