Burgundy 2023: Virgile Lignier-Michelot
2024 is only our second vintage working with Virgile – after a mutual friend tipped us off that we should visit and taste the 2022s last year – but this has fast become one of my favourite new agency producers.
If you aren’t familiar with his wines, you should be
– Allen Meadows / Burghound
The above is quoted from Burghound’s introduction to his reviews of Lignier-Michelot’s 2022 wines, but it still holds true. This producer is an undiscovered gem in Morey Saint Denis. Virgile has a wealth of old vines across an enviable line-up of vineyards, yet his prices are refreshingly modest for the quality he achieves.
At the village level, Morey Saint Denis ‘En la Rue de Vergey’ is often described as a baby Clos de Tart and lies along the road just above that famous Grand Cru; the Chambolle Musigny is a serious expression from 80 year old vines. The neighbouring 1er Crus of Faconnieres and Chenevery show clearly distinct characters, shaped by their terroirs; Faconnieres is more delicate and aerial, whilst the exposed bedrock of Chenevery gives a more structured, mineral and chiselled quality. At the top of the range sits a glorious Clos de la Roche (95-97pts Neal Martin) that I scored on a par with Dujac’s version of this Grand Cru (Neal had it a whisker behind Dujac).
The only problem is, there isn’t more wine to go around!
Even in this generous vintage our allocation is not enormous, so please get back to us quickly if you’re keen to secure your first choices.
Have a great weekend,
Matthew Hemming MW
The Offer:
Offered subject to confirmation; we will confirm allocations within one week. This is an en primeur order and wines will be available for delivery in SG later in 2025.
2023 Virgile Lignier-Michelot
Chambolle Musigny
SGD $480 ($523.20 inc GST) per case (6*75cl OC)
80 year old vines from two plots and vinified with 80% whole clusters. Aromatically quite reserved, just very delicate red fruit, but the palate is all charm and grace. Very Chambolle in profile – fine and delicate. Tannins are extremely pretty and fine-grained.
90-91pts – Matthew Hemming MW
The 2023 Chambolle-Musigny Vieilles Vignes comes from two lieux-dits on clay and more limestone soils. This is quite open and generous on the lightly extracted and finely delineated nose with red berries, touches of incense and sous-bois. The palate is medium-bodied and quite elegant in style with fine tannins and a fleshy, smooth, lightly spiced finish. It’s delightful, even if outshone by Lignier’s range of Morey Premier Crus.
89-91pts – Neal Martin / Vinous
Morey Saint Denis ‘En la Rue de Vergy’
SGD $480 ($523.20 inc GST) per case (6*75cl OC)
From 50 year old vines located just above Clos de Tart in a nicely elevated exposition; colloquially known as Baby Clos de Tart! Similarly reserved on the nose to the Chambolle. 70% whole bunches don’t really show on the nose, which is all very pure red fruit, but serve to highlight the structural elements on the palate. Very finely delineated, with fresh, supple, sweet tannin and superior length for a village wine. Very impressive.
92-94pts – Matthew Hemming MW
The 2023 Morey-Saint-Denis en la Rue de Vergy has a more introspective nose than last year and demands coaxing, reluctantly revealing black plum and raspberry scents, hints of Earl Grey and a light marine influence. The palate is beautifully balanced with impressive red cherry and wild strawberry notes, gentle grip and a judicious touch of pepper on the finish. This is a level-up from the previous vintage.
90-92pts – Neal Martin
Morey Saint Denis 1er Cru Les Faconnieres
SGD $750 ($817.50 inc GST) per case (6*75cl OC)
Virgile uses 80% whole clusters in Faconnieres which, in many ways, is the calling card of the estate. The aromas are dominated by dried flowers and rose hips, from the stems. Behind that, the fruit is slender and pure. Fragrant in style. The mid-palate has scent and sweetness, with a sort of powdery quality to the tannins that gives complex musk notes on the back end.
92-93pts – Matthew Hemming MW
The 2023 Morey-Saint-Denis Faconnières 1er Cru, which contains 70% whole cluster, offers black pepper and pencil shaving scents on the nose that leans more toward the black side of the fruit spectrum. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, quite peppery and lively, but there is also a sense of elegance and Pinoté toward the lingering finish. There’s good potential here.
92-94pts – Neal Martin
Morey Saint Denis 1er Cru Les Chenevery
SGD $780 ($850.20 inc GST) per case (6*75cl OC)
This Cru is just below Faconnieres with lots of exposed bedrock. Musk, florals and red fruit lead on the nose. It’s immediately more incisive and demonstrative than the previous wine. Great volume that really crescendos and accelerates through the mid-palate. Lots of nuance and chiselled mineral detail. Darker fruit on the finish. Long and succulent.
92-94pts – Matthew Hemming MW
The 2023 Morey-Saint-Denis Les Chenevery 1er Cru has a tightly wound bouquet that shows more restraint and coolness compared to the preceding, more exotic Genavrières. The palate is medium-bodied with fine, pliant tannins and perfectly judged acidity that keeps this Morey on its toes. It has more mineralité evident on the finish. This is a classy offering that will give 15 to 20 years of drinking pleasure.
93-95pts – Neal Martin
Clos de la Roche Grand Cru
SGD $350 ($381.50 inc GST) per bottle
** Maximum 3 bottles per customer; tied 1:2 with another wine from this offer**
Youthful almost to the point of embryonic. Serious and sort of dark-toned even though the fruit is more in the red spectrum – the darkness is a spicy, dusky quality derived from the whole clusters. Perfumed, classical and harmonious on the palate. Limestone terroir brings salinity, tension and energy – has fabulous texture. There’s a symetry and finesse.
95-97pts – Matthew Hemming MW
The 2023 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru, which includes 80% whole bunch, has a beautifully defined bouquet that is more complex and terroir-expressive than the preceding Charmes-Chambertin. The palate is medium-bodied with a fleshy opening that disguises the insistent grip behind, a testament to Lignier-Michelot’s more hands-off approach in extraction. It is refined, with lovely balance and a touch of allspice toward the finish. This is a worthy follow-up to his standout 2022. I would not be surprised if it ends up at the top of my banded score once in bottle.
95-97pts – Neal Martin
Terms & Conditions
Offer ends on Monday 20th January 2025 l No further discount l Immediate payment required l Delivery fees ($32.72) waived for purchases above $500 before GST excluding airports | Cancellation of orders not allowed l Orders to be collected/delivered upon stock availability l Goods left uncollected may incur storage charges | Offered Ex-Singapore & subject to remaining unsold
