When I talk to people about Barolo I often refer to the ‘contemporary style.’  These are classically-proportioned wines that are grounded in the region’s traditions but borrow the best elements from cutting edge viticulture and winemaking.

The old distinction between Traditionalists and Modernists feels redundant – Modernist Barolo today tastes old fashioned!

For me, Einaudi perfectly encapsulates contemporary Barolo.
– Matthew Hemming MW / Vinum

One of the archetypes of what we call contemporary Barolo, Einaudi employ 21st century techniques and technology to inform an otherwise traditional approach.  This has not always been the approach here but it is absolutely the direction in which Matteo Sardegna has taken his estate in recent years.  In the winery, large Slavonian botti almost rub shoulders with imposing concrete vats of the same design as those found in Cheval Blanc’s new facility.

It is a clear message of intent: no expense has been spared!  However, the wines still deliver remarkable value compared to their peers.

In the glass, Matteo Sardegna’s considered approach delivers wines of purity and precision that speak with clarity of their individual Crus.  Classic Nebbiolo structure is there but the tannins have a degree of refinement that, in combination with the red fruit and floral notes, delivers an almost Burgundian texture.There have been two new additions to the range in recent years:

Monvigliero is the most famous vineyard of Barolo’s northernmost commune, Verduno.  In the era of climate change, Verduno’s cooler microclimates have come into their own with finely chiselled wines of great tension and scent.

2020 is just the second vintage of Einaudi’s Villero to be released and it is the smallest production of their Crus with only about 6,000 bottles.  Located in Castiglione Falletto, we found the 2020 Villero to be the most floral, elegant and aromatic of the Einaudi 2020s.

Einaudi have captured some of the best elements of the 2020 vintage and their wines continue to offer compelling value for the quality, do let us know if you would like to add some to your cellar.

Barolo Terlo Vigna Costa Grimaldi 2020
£210 per case (1×6) OC in bond
A slightly stronger colour than either Villero or Monvigliero and an immediately more generous and demonstrative red fruit profile.  The flavours are precisely delineated and bright.  The sweet red fruit is more amplified and lifted here – juicy and succulent.  Perhaps a bit more forward, and less authoritative but delivers on richness and upfront pleasure.  Tannins cushion the fruit and give a fine, silky texture to the finish.
93/100 – Matthew Hemming MWCamphor, dog rose, wild berry and dark exotic spice aromas mingle with an earthy truffle note on the stunning 2020 Terlo. It boasts great intensity, structure and energy, delivering ripe raspberry, tobacco, star anise and crushed mint accompanied by tightly wound, fine-grained tannins. Drink 2028–2038.
95/100 – Kerin O’KeefeThe 2020 Barolo Terlo Vigna Costa Grimaldi marries fruit depth and structure. It is the most classically austere of these wines in feel, even if it saw a bit more new oak than the other Barolos. Dark blue fruit, spice, leather, licorice, gravel and menthol build in an explosive, deep Barolo that will require some cellaring. Aging took place half in tonneaux and half in cask.
94+/100 – Antonio Galloni

Barolo Villero 2020
£280 per case (1×6) OC in bond
A smaller production of only in the order of 6,000 bottles.  Aromatically, the most floral, elegant and scented expression in the range.  Fine and silky palate but just a little soft.  There’s more breadth than drive, although the tannins do provide shape and vigour on the back of the palate.  Finishes with spice and sweetness.
90/100 – Matthew Hemming MW

Camphor, violet and dark exotic spice aromas take shape on the 2020 Villero along with a whiff of hazelnut. Full-bodied and showing a weightless concentration, the palate offers ripe red cherry, crushed orange, licorice and tobacco alongside tightly woven, close-grained tannins that leave a firm finish. Drink 2028–2035.
93/100 – Kerin O’Keefe

Just bottled, the 2020 Barolo Villero presents gorgeous spice, leather and savory notes. Fruit lies more in the background, as is often the case with wines from this cru. The 2020 shows good depth and plenty of persistence, both of which should help it develop nicely over the coming years. This has real grip, especially on the finish.
93+/100 – Antonio Galloni

Barolo Monvigliero 2020
£280 per case (1×6) OC in bond
Again, pale and delicate.  The aromas are subdued and introverted – only when you leave the glass alone, without swirling, does a red fruit scent and spice start to emerge.  Markedly savoury and linear on the palate.  Has elements of mint and fennel.  Precise, insistent and intense; a really penetrating fragrance.  Not as expressive or expansive as Cannubi on the palate; holds an austerity and tension but the tannins are finely chiselled.
92/100 – Matthew Hemming MW

Aromas of graphite, camphor, lavender and black spice lead the way on the enveloping 2020 Monvigliero. Full-bodied and showing structure and finesse, the palate features ripe cranberry, blood orange, licorice and tangy saline alongside velvety, close-grained tannins. Drink 2026–3035.
94/100 – Kerin O’Keefe

The 2020 Barolo Monvigliero is a pretty, gracious wine. Dried cherry, mint, spice, crushed rose petal and tobacco lead into a core of bright, red-toned fruit. Medium in body and gracious, the 2020 impresses with its finessed personality and understated persistence. This is very open and nicely done.
93/100 – Antonio Galloni

Barolo Cannubi 2020
£280 per case (1×6) OC in bond
Pale colour and mouth-watering aromas of crushed red berries and raspberries.  Sweet, pure and fluid.  Surprisingly delicate and gaining a cranberry element with some air.  Hints at smokey tones.  Sleek and lifted on the palate with both sweetness and purity of fruit.  The tannins give a gentle grip – chalky and saline on the finish.  Finishes with pepper and more red fruit.  With more air, a suggestion of underbrush and sage appears.
93/100 – Matthew Hemming MW

The 2020 Cannubi from Poderi Luigi Einaudi is gorgeous, starting with its fragrance of pressed rose, new leather, dark spice and forest berry. Intense, smooth and beautifully balanced, the elegantly structured palate features succulent strawberry, spiced cherry, blood orange and star anise before a truffle finish. Taut, fine-grained tannins provide polished support. Drink 2027–2035.
96/100 – Kerin O’Keefe

The 2020 Barolo Cannubi is a young, promising wine. It shows terrific depth in the understated style of the year. Crushed flowers, cedar, tobacco, licorice and dried herbs fill out the layers effortlessly. Pliant and expressive, the Cannubi is super-classy, not to mention a pleasure to taste.
94/100 – Antonio Galloni

Barolo Bussia 2020
£280 per case (1×6) OC in bond
A complete package – pure, spicy, inense and with masses of bright red fruit.  Crunchy and lifted.  Has some of the underbrush spice and earth tones.  This is more deeply-pitched and bass-driven than previous Crus but without being particularly dark-toned – the fruit remains red.  Menthol and sage tones on the finish, with firm and slightly saline tannins.  Lovely textural balance between the fine-boned and the tensile.  Pristine and poised.
95/100 – Matthew Hemming MW

The 2020 Bussia shows great tension and structure. Boasting concentration and balance, it delivers juicy red cherry, pomegranate, white pepper and star anise before closing on a tangy mineral note recalling wet stone. A backbone of tightly knit, fine-grained tannins provides support. Give it a few more years to fully develop. Drink 2028–2035.
96/100 – Kerin O’Keefe

The 2020 Barolo Bussia is one of the most impressive wines in this range from Einaudi. Ample and explosive on the palate, with striking depth, the Bussia has a level of complexity that is not found in the other wines. Strong spice and balsamic inflections weave through a core of fruit in this resonant, wonderfully expressive Barolo.
95/100 – Antonio Galloni

Offered subject to remaining unsold and available in the UK later in the year. Offer expires 20th April 2024.