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Berries to Barrels: Beginning of the Fermentation

After the excitement of the harvest, everything has calmed down. The sun has been replaced by rain, and the cold has started to nip at our cheeks. Fortunately, this means more coffee breaks by the first cosy fires of the season (fueled with old barrels, of course!). In the winery, things are also slower due to the reduced yields. The atmosphere is gentle, and the team is focused.

At Follin-Arbelet, the tanks are like five sisters. It’s like siblings where everyone looks similar, but with time, you notice small differences, not only in size but also in content. For 30 years, each has taken care of a specific plot only. The largest tanks are for Les Vercots and Clos du Chapitre, the medium ones hold Aloxe-Corton Village and Les Fichots 1er Cru, and the smallest cares for the precious Corton Grand Cru.

They’re settled and content, finally able to welcome their precious new grapes. It’s like a gestation period, surrogate mothers doing one of the most important jobs before releasing their offspring into the world. (Click here to watch the video).

The cellar is a unique place that tantalises all our senses. You can smell the Pinot Noir beginning to ferment (the delightful aroma drifts through the entire house), you can touch and taste the must, admire the beautiful purple flecked with white and pink, but most importantly, you can hear them. You can hear their whispers, chatter and giggles. They’re likely discussing their challenging year, facing frost, hail, and especially rain. They’re sharing stories of battling mildew and oidium. Then they recount their relief, their joy (though a bit shocked by the bawdy songs!) when they saw a merry band of harvesters come to gather them all together.

The white grapes quickly mingled right after being harvested. In the press, the fusion of juices began. Then, they waited a few days to be gravity-fed into their barrels in the cellar, where they began their fermentation quietly and safely. (Click here to watch the video).

 

Winemaking & When Do You Love Your Wine?

Simon is at the helm, with his father Franck never too far away. The tanks are half-full as the yields were very low because of the challenging year, which dampens their spirits, even though they’re doing better than many other winemakers in the region.

Simon walked me through all the steps, and for the first time, I realised that chemistry could actually be interesting. The crucial points are:

  • Temperature: It must not get too high—30-32°C is ideal, with a 35°C threshold being critical as it can kill the indigenous yeasts.
  • Fermentation Progress: The breakdown of sugars into alcohol. Unlike 2020 or 2023, 2024 hasn’t been hot at all, so at least there’s no risk of yeasts having too much sugar to consume.
  • Oxygen Supply: Yeasts need oxygen, so there are a few pump-overs (which also allow for light extraction).
  • AND Daily Tasting: Every day, they taste everything to evaluate color, the structure, any green aromas. I discovered once again the limits of my palate while tasting this must. Not easy to have an opinion on wine at the dawn of its adolescence. I can evaluate the body, feel some touches of acidity, and smell just a little bit of fruit,  yet no clear idea of its future potential. But I am happy to see that Simon is pretty satisfied. To him, 2024 wines this year will truly be representative of their terroir as for vintages like 2017 or 2021.

What surprised me while discussing this tasting with Simon was that he said he doesn’t like his wines at this stage. It takes nine long months until the mid-elevage racking before he starts to fall in love with them! Nine months..

Soon, it will be time for devatting and barreling, with plenty of mini-tasks orbiting around. In the meantime, I’m heading back to the fireside, but this time I’ve swapped my coffee for a glass of Vercots 2015!

Bises,
Manon

This is a Test 2