Burgundy 2023: Jean-Michel Gaunoux
I confess, when I first came across Jean-Marie Gaunoux, it was the lure of (relatively) inexpensive Meursault Perrieres that drew me in. However, from my first tasting, the considerable potential of both the domaine’s impressive vineyard holdings and Henri Gaunoux’s winemaking made for a compelling proposition.
Since that first tasting, Henri has exerted increasing influence over the direction of the estate’s wines, as he gradually takes over from his father. This transition has seen wines that were traditionally quite rustic and unyielding shift to whites of greater precision and focus, and reds with emphasis on purity, elegance and supple tannins.
The up-tick in quality has also been noticed by critics, as Henri gains recognition as an emerging talent in Meursault. Reviewing the 2020s, Neal Martin commented:
…there is a tangible improvement, I suspect partly because Jean-Michel Gaunoux is allowing his son a freer rein…I really adored the Meursault Perrieres, one of the finest that I encountered during my visits, while the Goutte d’Or also has much to offer
– Neal Martin / vinous.com
The pace of change has increased, and upward trajectory of quality steepened, steadily each year. Our team was delighted by the quality of the 2023s and Henri’s prices remain eminently fair. Of course, the classic reds of the Cote de Beaune represent perhaps the greatest bargains in all Burgundy.
In addition to estate wines labelled Domaine Jean-Michel Gaunoux, Henri buys a small quantity of fruit to produce some negociant wines under Jean-Michel Gaunoux-Hudelot – Henri being related to Domaine Hudelot-Noellat on his mother’s side. This year sees a new addition to the range in the form of an extremely stylish Saint Romain – a village that is really benefitting from the effects of global warming but whose prices have not yet ascended to the level of many Saint Aubin crus.
Whites with razor-sharp definition and citrus profiles, complemented by the sweetness of blossom and white flowers; reds that are expressive, fresh and elegant; all at prices we feared were something of the past! Henri Gaunoux’s wines represent le vrai Bourgogne and merit a place in any wine-lover’s cellar.
Plenty more 2023s to follow…
With all best wishes,
Matthew Hemming MW
The Offer:
Wines offered en primeur, for delivery in 2025, and subject to confirmation.
2023 Bourgogne Cote d’Or (domaine)
SGD $300 ($327 inc GST) per case (6*75cl OC) en primeur – 5 cases available
Has a lemon butter / custard aroma that is at once fresh and with a certain richness. This continues onto the palate, with a distinct fruit sweetness. Really flattering, complete and appealing. Long and juicy.
90-91pts – Matthew Hemming MW
2023 Saint Romain (Jean-Michel Gaunoux-Hudelot)
SGD $360 ($392.40 inc GST) per case (6*75cl OC) EP – 5 cases available
First vintage, from purchased grapes. A mineral and chalky expression but with a generosity that seems to wear the postcode of Meursault. There’s laser beam of acidity on the finish that brings focus and energy.
90-93pts – Matthew Hemming MW
2023 Meursault (domaine)
SGD $525 ($572.25 inc GST) per case (6*75cl OC) en primeur – 30 cases available
SGD $585 ($637.65 inc GST) per case magnums (3*150cl OC) EP – 2 cases available
Sophisticated for village wine, with a sweet and toasty, reductive, element. Classy aromatics. Florals take the lead but there are also grilled nuts and almond characters. Some fleshy notes fatten out the mid-palate. Some layering on the finish.
90-92pts – Matthew Hemming MW
2023 Meursault 1er Cru Les Gouttes d’Or (domaine)
SGD $770 ($839.30 inc GST) per case (6*75cl OC) EP – 5 cases available
Maybe the first wine really disturbed by the fining (just the previous week). Just a bit undemonstrative and closed down. Has a lemony, blossom-tinged quality on the palate. Lovely acidity, and you can sense both energy and tightly-coiled layers. As the mid-palate evolves, you start to feel greater vibrancy and latent minerality.
91-93pts – Matthew Hemming MW
2023 Meursault 1er Cru Les Charmes (Jean-Michel Gaunoux-Hudelot)
SGD $790 ($861.10 inc GST) per case (6*75cl OC) EP – 4 cases available
This is more open, spicy and accessible. Some wild honey, but totally balanced out by very fresh and incisive acidity. Crunchy and vivid. Ripe orchard fruit notes on the mid-palate and a growing spice element. The best rendition of Charmes to date from Henri!
93-95pts – Matthew Hemming MW
2023 Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrieres (domaine)
SGD $925 ($1,008.25 inc GST) per case (6*75cl OC) EP – 10 cases available
SGD $1,130 ($1,231.70 inc GST) per case magnums (3*150cl OC) EP – 2 cases available
Meursault Perrieres to be purchased 1:1 with other wines from this offer
A twist of reduction on the nose. The oak has left an imprint on the palate, for now, but there is superb acidity and a clear Perrieres thrust of minerality throughout. Chalky and tensile. There is a salty quality on the back of the mid-palate that brings additional twang and energy. Very long.
93-96pts – Matthew Hemming MW
2023 Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru Les Folatieres (domaine)
SGD $870 ($948.30 inc GST) per case (6*75cl OC) EP – 6 cases available
Slightly less spring than the Meursault wines. There is some vibrancy at the core but it’s more about rich, buttery density than mineral verve. Just a little fatter in the very middle, with notes of grilled nuts, before it tightens up and builds tension on the finish. Spice and honey on the very end.
91-93pts – Matthew Hemming MW
****
2023 Pommard Les Perrieres (domaine)
SGD $375 ($408.75 inc GST) per case (6*75cl OC) EP – 10 cases available
Pure and expressive red fruit aromas. Bright and sappy. Crunchy profile, yet the tannins are finely sculpted and succulent. Juicy and in the elegant, contemporary style of Pommard.
89-91pts – Matthew Hemming MW
2023 Volnay 1er Cru Les Brouillards (domaine)
SGD $620 ($675.80 inc GST) per case (6*75cl OC) EP – 10 cases available
Has some of the chalky structure of Brouillards but is also silky and supple. A strong, assertive, mineral structure but entirely balanced out by the ripe berry fruit aspect. Finishes with a cocoa dusting of tannin.
90-92pts – Matthew Hemming MW
Terms & Conditions
Offer ends on Friday 27th December 2024 l No further discount l Immediate payment required l Delivery fees ($32.72) waived for purchases above $500 before GST excluding airports | Cancellation of orders not allowed l Orders to be collected/delivered upon stock availability l Goods left uncollected may incur storage charges | Offered Ex-Singapore & subject to remaining unsold
