Domaine Dubreuil-Fontaine 2022 en primeur - proper Burgundy made by proper farmers at proper prices
We have a huge soft spot for this domaine and its owners. Christine Gruere-Fontaine and her family are humble and extremely genuine, their wines have a corresponding sense of authenticity as well as being delicious. There is no artifice and nothing flash. This is proper Burgundy, made by proper farmers, and sold at very fair prices.
Pernand Vergelesses is one of those villages that has benefitted from climate change. Vineyards that used to struggle for ripeness are now finding it much more regularly whilst more exposed sites, that used to be prized for ease of ripening, now have to focus on managing sugars and preserving acidity. Pommard has also entered something of a golden age, shrugging off the rustic tannins of the past to become the Cote de Beaune’s most exciting red wine village.
After many years of tasting at this address, I felt a step up in the quality of precision and finesse.
– Neal Martin / vinous.com
Dubreui-Fontaine are based in Pernand and also own vines in Pommard. In addition to wines from both of these villages, I’m pleased to be offering a line up of their Grand Crus from the hill of Corton. Christine makes a classic Corton Charlemagne as well as three red versions of Corton Grand Cru.
Throughout the range, the value element of the Cote de Beaune is plain to see. We’re not about to turn our backs on Chambolle and Vosne – and do not suggest that anyone else does either – but as Cote de Nuits prices continue to accelerate, the southern Cote offers a refuge that provides wines of pedigree, quality, longevity and value. Dubreuil-Fontaine: proper Burgundy, proper people, proper prices.
Pernand Vergelesses 1er Cru Clos Berthet (monopole) 2022
£185 per case (1×6) OC en primeur
In bottle since July. Immediately feels like a vintage well suited to Pernand. The fruit is ripe but this has a really superb acid line. There’s a kiss of oak, and fleshy orchard fruit, but everything is kept tight and compact by this vivid core of tension. There’s a mineral, saline twist on the back of the palate. There’s mid-palate complexiyty and some scent, with white flowers and blossom. A touch of orange peel on the very finish before turning savoury and citric once more.
92/100 – Matthew Hemming MW
The 2022 Pernand-Vergelesses Blanc Clos Berthet 1er Cru has more precision and tension than the Sous Fretille, offering orchard fruit, chamomile and touches of chai tea. The palate is well-balanced with fine nerve, plenty of mineralité and lots of energy (there’s a bit of CO2 at the moment) with a sustained finish. Very fine.
91/100 – Neal Martin
Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru 2022
£495 per case (1×6) OC en primeur
Much more breadth and power. Mealy, rich in the mid-palate and quite textural. The acidity is sheathed at the core and quite easy to miss. Tightly balled at the core right now. Finishes with a touch of bitterness and saline minerality.
94/100 – Matthew Hemming MW
The 2022 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru has a well-defined bouquet with lemon curd, orange pith, walnut and a touch of smoke. The palate is very well-defined with fine acidity and fine weight – not a heavy Corton-Charlemagne. There is fine length here, but I would have liked more mineralité and tension on the finish.
91/100 – Neal Martin
Pommard 1er Cru Epenots 2022
£240 per case (1×6) OC en primeur
Will be bottled in Jan / Feb. Plump and fleshy cherry fruit. Dark cherries, with a charming spice element coming into the mid-palate. There’s an underlying mineral structure and the tannins are deceptive as you don’t really feel them at first. The spice fans out on the back end and the sweetness builds.
90-93pts – Matthew Hemming MW
The 2022 Pommard Epenots 1er Cru has more depth of fruit on the nose. You could almost mistake this for having some whole bunches in the mix (there is nary a stem). Cranberry, briar and touches of wild hedgerow. The palate is medium-bodied with fine depth of supple fruit, grainy in texture, with a cohesive finish. This has one of the higher alcohol levels, even though it was one of the first to be picked. It’s flattering at the moment…perhaps it needs a little more finesse on the finish.
90-92pts – Neal Martin
Corton Perrieres Grand Cru 2022
£285 per case (1×6) OC en primeur
Very tight red berry fruit. Almost like a blood plum character. Juicy, bright and structured with firm, chalky tannins. Compact and high-tensile in profile. The wood gives a fine veneer of toast on the back of the palate. The most mineral and linear of the Corton reds.
90-92pts – Matthew Hemming MW
The 2022 Corton-Perrières Grand Cru has a precise bouquet with wild strawberry, crushed stone, briar and a touch of hawthorn. The medium-bodied palate has fine-grain tannins and gentle grip, with a slightly bitter finish that needs to kick on a little more.
90-92pts – Neal Martin
Corton Bressandes Grand Cru 2022
£295 per case (1×6) OC en primeur
A Corton of breadth and volume, showing a Grand Cru scale and structure. Ripe, generous and scented. Has a scented quality, with some musk and finesse, and spicy fruit. The tannins are surprisingly fine and elegant. Extends on the finish in a way that was missing in the previous wines. The finish is cool and perfumed.
92-94pts – Matthew Hemming MW
The 2022 Corton-Bressandes Grand Cru has a perfumed bouquet with red plum, wild strawberry and potpourri scents, very seductive with the oak is beautifully integrated. The palate is medium-bodied with fine structure, fresh and vibrant. This builds in the mouth, offering red plum and baking powder. Gentle but insistent grip on the finish. Wonderful.
94-96pts – Neal Martin
Corton Clos du Roi Grand Cru 2022
£320 per case (1×6) OC en primeur
Conforms more to expectations of Corton in its power, intensity and structure. Much more muscular and with a bigger tannic frame. That said, the 2022 has plenty of flesh and succulence to buffer the framework beneath. Quite dark-toned and a little bit dry, with tannin, on the back end.
90-93pts – Matthew Hemming MW
The 2022 Corton-Clos-du-Roi Grand Cru has a clean and pure bouquet, quite delineated, with touches of wild rose petals and impressive mineralité. The medium-bodied palate offers vivid red fruit; refined with crisp acidity. Silky smooth, a real peacock’s tail towards the finish with a long aftertaste. The best Corton-Bressandes* the Domaine has ever produced.
90-92pts – Neal Martin
90-92pts – Neal Martin
