2018 Leeuwin Estate, Art Series Chardonnay, Margaret River 12x75cl

JancisRobinson.com 17.5

Tasted from a mini sample bottle. The jewel in the portfolio. 100% Gingin clones planted in 1975 and 1976. Senior winemaker Tim Lovett said he s just come in from running off parcel 20 of this, which has had eight hours skin contact. Hand-picked. 60 pickers for one parcel of fruit. Destemmed, chilled down and pressed under CO2 for six to eight hours to amplify the vineyard. Inoculated yeast, fermented in 100% new Bordeaux-coopered oak from six different coopers. Bordelais-coopered oak has a much finer grain tightness and toasting level is much more precise and consistent. The fruit behind the wine has much more richness and power and length so I’m looking for the fine phenolic structure from tight grain that is not over-toasted. Spends longer on barrel than Prelude. A little lees work, no malo. Higher acidity, year on year, than Prelude (which is for more youthful, early drinking).
Apricot intensity on the nose. And fresh hazelnut, cumin, lightly pan-warmed walnuts. Quince and gorgeous greengage on the palate. Has opulent spread but a charge of acidity that turns satin as it fills the mouth. Top notes of jasmine. A bite of grapefruit. The oak, again, like the Prelude, is so beautifully folded into the wine that even at this young stage it is not a feature, just part of the story, part of the flow. Aristocratic bearing, proud, elegant. (TC) [23/02/2021]

Anticipated maturity: 2022-2030