Montrachet & Musigny – Lunch With Joseph Drouhin

Joseph Drouhin Lunch @ Caratere

In November this year, I was invited to attend a spectacular lunch hosted by Burgundy’s Joseph Drouhin and its UK importer Pol Roger. Held at Notting Hill’s Caractere restaurant.

Due to the tiny size of the soon-to-be-released 2024 vintage, Drouhin took the opportunity to treat a lucky few of us from the London trade to some of this famous house’s flagship bottlings: the Musigny, Montrachet Marquis de Laguiche and Clos des Mouches Blanc and Rouge, all from double magnums.

A Word On The 2024 Harvest At Drouhin

In London for the event was Veronique Drouhin, and before moving on to the eagerly awaited back vintages, she gave us a little background on the 2024 vintage. As is well-documented, it was a tough year for many in Burgundy, with some producers losing huge percentages of their crops.

Joseph Drouhin didn’t escape the ravages of nature unscathed, and as a result won’t be able to bottle many of its Grand Crus this year. They are also planning to sell what Grand Crus were made as a mixed case, such are the limitations on overall quantity.

Happily, Veronique was very happy with the quality of what little was produced, meaning that for those able to find them, 2024s will be worth picking up.

The Joseph Drouhin Wines

Beaune Clos des Mouches Blanc 1er Cru

We started with the Joseph Drouhin Clos des Mouches Blanc from the 2021 and 2023 vintages. This is one of Drouhin’s most historic vineyards as it was one of the first acquired by the maison back in the 1920s.

The 2021 and 2023 were interesting to taste side by side. The 2021 was more open and expressive, while the 2023 was more tightly wound, tensile and lean. Great balance and length here with real ageing potential, a lovely wine.

Montrachet Marquis de Laguiche Grand Cru

The flagship wine of the estate. This comes from a large plot of Montrachet that the Drouhins managed to gain access to in WW2. They have been in charge of it’s management and cultivation ever since.

We tasted the Joseph Drouhin Montrachet Marquis de Laguiche 2018 and 2022. They only make a handful of double magnums of these, so we were incredibly privileged.

The 2018 was every inch the Grand Cru. Intense, yet never heavy on the palate, it screams quality. This is a big vintage and contrasted well against the 2022. This 2022 is a superb wines in the making. From a brilliant white Burgundy vintage, it is refined, elegant and full of understated power. It’s built for the long haul, so give it a decade and those lucky enough to own it are in for an incredible experience.

The Beaune Clos des Mouches 1er Cru

We tasted the 2016 alongside the 2020 vintage. Although the vineyard is next to Pommard, these are much lighter and more accessible in style than those of its neighbour. The 2016 was an excellent match for chicken and was in a really good place with acidity, tannin and fruit in excellent balance. The 2020 was more lush and immediate but you could really see the benefit in the extra couple of years afforded to the 2016.

The Joseph Drouhin Musigny

Even after many years in the trade, I can count on the fingers of one hand how many times I’ve drunk Musigny outside of en primeur tastings. Drinking two, from large formats, was truly memorable.

The 2014 Joseph Drouhin Musigny was developing nicely, with a lovely ethereal nose revealing hints of secondary character. On the palate it was light on its feet while still hiniting at masses of power in reserve. A really classy finish rounded it off perfectly.

The 2022 Musigny was richer and rounder. Still a young wine and yet to fully integrate its oak, it was muscular, and imposing. Loads of potential here, but needs plenty of time.

An Unforgettable Afternoon

This was an afternoon I’ll remember for a long time. Some outstanding cooking from the team at Caractere matched with as impressive a line up of wines that I’ve tasted in a very long time. No miss-steps here, just huge quality, beautifully delivered.

A big thank you to Veronique and the team at Drouhin and Pol Roger for their incredible generosity.