A Vertical Tasting of Kumeu River Chardonnay

And now for something completely different – A Vertical Tasting of Kumeu River Chardonnay 

Mirroring Vinum’s focus, most of the articles I write up for our Journal focus on classic European wines.  Bordeaux and Burgundy tend to dominate, with a bit of Champagne and Italy thrown in and the (very) occasional foray into California.    

In a recent piece offering advice on How to Build a Wine Collection I mentioned the value of tasting groups.  Well – hey presto! – my own local tasting group put on a 14 wine retrospective of Chardonnay from Kumeu River in New Zealand.  Wines I knew more by reputation than by tasting, albeit a reputation that is sky high, I jumped at the chance to taste outside of what’s become my regular comfort zone. 

Originally called San Marino, the estate was founded by the Brajkovich family who emigrated from Croatia in the 1930s and were able to buy the property, outside Aukland, in 1945.  In the 1980s the name was changed to Kumeu River and second generation Michael Brajkovich spent three years studying winemaking in Burgundy. 

The rest, as they say, is history.  

Under Michael’s leadership, a Burgundian inspiration became the clear focus and quality became the goal.  Today, Kumeu River is in the conversation not only as one of New Zealand’s top Chardonnays, but as a truly world class Chardonnay and fine alternative to Burgundy. 

Our tasting spanned vintages 2023-2006 and all were as fresh as daisies thanks to their Stelvin screwcaps – which Michael adopted after unacceptable cork failure rates in the early 2000s.  Interestingly, we were left under no doubt that wines sealed under screwcap evolve and mature in bottle.  Evolution may be a little slower but the wines certainly improve and develop – crucially, this development is also consistent. 

We focused on three wines: the Estate Chardonnay and single vineyard wines from Hunting Hill and Mate’s Vineyard.  All three are made using the same techniques, drawn from classic white Burgundy production.  In essence: 

• Hand harvesting 

• Whole bunch pressing 

• Barrel fermentation 

• 11 months oak maturation, on the lees 

The proportion of new oak varies somewhat between the different wines. 

Estate Chardonnay 

This is not actually the entry level wine as there is a Village Chardonnay that sits one rung below.  Kumeu River’s Estate Chardonnay is produced entirely from fruit from the Auckland region with selected lots from the Brajkovich vineyards being supplemented by fruit purchased from neighbouring sites – this does raise the question, which I’ll ask if I ever get the chance, why is it called Estate?  We could not find any precise numbers, I assume this is the wine made with the lowest percentage of new oak.  It is a killer value for its price and clearly benefits from a few years bottle age. 

Hunting Hill 

A single vineyard in a slightly cooler microclimate, benefitting from sea breezes.  3-hectares of vines produce around 1,000 cases a year, aged in 25% new oak barrels that usually come from Francois Freres in Burgundy.  The vines here were re-planted in 2000 using modern clones and the wine tends to be more in the sculpted, linear and slightly reductive style currently popular for white Burgundy – more Roulot than Lafon. 

Mate’s Vineyard 

Named after Michael’s father, this was one of the original vineyards.  It was re-planted with the Mendoza clone in 1990.  Popular at the time, this clone is responsible for many of the richer, more tropical Chardonnays of Australia and California.  There is some virus in the vines that reduces yields and produces smaller ‘millerandage’ berries.  Consequently, this is the biggest and richest of the Kumeu Chardonnays, matured in approximately 30% new Burgundy barrels. 

In general, I found the three wines shared a distinctly classical frame and profile.  Their Burgundian inspiration was evident but so were their New Zealand origins.  This was very much a case of ‘inspiration, not imitation’.  When tasked with identifying an identifying character in New Zealand wines, I go for a clarity and vibrancy of fruit.  I find fruit characters prominent in many New Zealand wines, but ‘fruit forward’ feels too dismissive and simplistic a phrase.  Instead there is a vivid quality and purity, enhanced by bright acidity, that creates a brilliance of fruit that, to me, is a hallmark of New Zealand wines.  I found these Kumeu River wines displayed this characteristic, framed by a sophistication and complexity that elevated them to the level of world class Chardonnay. 

Estate Chardonnay 2023

Bright, limey and vivid fruit aromas. A brilliant quality that translates to thrillingly incisive acidity on the palate. Has a touch of oak and the merest whisp of reduction bringing interest to the nose and some additionaltexturual breadth. Taut and citric through the palate. Finish rides on its acidity, that is crisp and lifted. 
90/100

Estate Chardonnay 2022

Green, appley and slightly dusty aromas. Granny smith apples. Some spice and earth notes but slightly less spritely and vivid than the 2023. There’s a silkiness to the texture but it’s not yet creamy. Perhaps in a difficult stage as there’s an energy and sense of coiled power at the core. Broadens out on the finish.
87/100

Estate Chardonnay 2020

A superb Chardonnay of harmony, breadth, texture and complexity. Quite a Burgundian aromatic profile of orchard fruit, but with an orange peel note and that distinctive New Zealand vibrancy. Time has broadened this so the mid-palate is creamy and luxurious. There’s an inner richness tempered by a chalky spine that brings a touch of minerality. Hugely impressive. Citrus blossom finish.
92/100

Hunting Hill 2020

Aromas are tightly bound up. Has an almost explosively sweet, custard apple, attack on the palate. Full and creamy, almost as though this is the first that wears its 100% malolactic conversion on its sleeve. Rich, layered and serious, although the fruit has a sustained sweetness that keeps it crowd-pleasing. Slightly warm alcohol, but it’s hardly noticeable. This has substantially more power than the Estate 2020 but it’s hard to say it’ssignificantly better wine. Is thicker, denser and more concentrated.
92/100

Estate Chardonnay 2019

The most closed and reductive Estate Chardonnay so far. There’s a greater degree of reduction that both clamps down the aromas and brings a touch of steely muscle. The palate is tightly packed and quite muscular. Clearly a powerful vintage but one that combines muscle with dynamism and flow. Lacks the effortless fluidity of 2020 but still an impressive and steely Chardonnay with a firm spine of acidity.
91/100

Hunting Hill 2019

Like the 2019 Estate, this has a high degree of reduction that’s binding everything up. Has a mineral, smokey element that’s morphing into minerality and spine. This resolves its power much more successfully than the Estate version. Has a Corton Charlemagne-esque sense of muscle and structure. Fruit sweetness evolves to a more savoury character on the back end. Steely and taut.
94/100

Mate’s Vineyard 2019

Both scent and palate show elements of Mate’s Vineyard being planted to Mendoza clones, with a tropical edge but it’s masterfully handled and any exoticism is beautifully balanced. Has spice, volume and depth. The mid-palate brings touches of citrus peel and blossom but sat within a sheath of acidity and drive. Expansive and expressive.
93/100

Hunting Hill 2017

Reserved scent, with an element of sweet spice and reductive toast. The fruit is sleek, pure and lnear. Whilst it has that New Zealand vibrancy and sweetness it’s also savoury and sophisticated. The acidity is mouth-tingling – one of the most elegant and energetic wines of the tasting. Dynamic and flowing.
93/100

Mate’s Vineyard 2017

A pronounced and forthright profile – this is both powerful and punchy. The same character shines through on the palate but it misses a degree of sophistication. Lots of spice and lots of power but it misses a more layered and sculpted quality. Rich but a bit crude compared to the Hunting Hill.
90/100

Hunting Hill 2016

Initially quite tight and then a cool, more Chablis-esque profile. Sweet, classical and reserved. Extremely classy and delicately-structured. The fruit element is fine-boned, vivid and fragrant. Has a superb thread of acidity and an over-riding sense of equilibrium. Finish rides on sweetness.
93/100

Mate’s Vineyard 2016

The profile is more exotic, and richer, than Hunting Hill but it’s also darker-toned in its fruit expression. Without being an oak character, this is just a touch roasted in style – almost like a Maillard Reaction quality. Spicy, rich and with orange-tinted notes. Finishes savoury and umami-tinted.
91/100

Hunting Hill 2015

At first this seems a little simple. Some nice buttery tones but nothing special. Then, on the palate, it has that melted butter character of really smart older Burgundy, complemented by a limey, citrus note. This drips over the palate with luxury but also elegance. Satin-y. This is knock out. Vivid, fresh and fluid.
95/100

Mate’s Vineyard 2012

Generous and open with sweet fruit that nods towards the more tropical end of the spectrum. The fruit profile is floral and led by citrus blossom notes, enlivened by crisp acidity. Quite fulsome white stone fruit on the finish. This is driven by ripeness more than structure.
91/100

Hunting Hill 2006

Honey-scented, floral, elegant and delicately spiced. Shares the melted butter tones of the 2015. The honey tone on the palate crowds out some of the finesse of the 2015 but this is still a superb Chardonnay that’sdelivering maturity and proper evolution. Gaining some waxy tones. There’s a richness and mass that has planed off some of the detail of other Hunting Hill vintages. A touch of butterscotch on the end.
92/100