Drinking in Christmas 

A Grinch’s guide on what and how to drink at Christmas!

Obviously, not everyone enjoys Christmas, and it can prove to be a challenging time of year.

It is highly likely that some of the more exuberant among us may experience excess fatigue. A sore head, perhaps. And, maybe that familiar sensation when one’s last little patch of patience suddenly evaporates – along with the very last slurp of the good stuff.

The fact that it has been slurped by a relative who wouldn’t know the difference between Benylin from Bordeaux, let alone Bordeaux from Burgundy does not help.

But plans can – and must – be made to avoid this sort of thing. It’s not like you don’t know who your festive audience is going to be. So, if you care what is going to disappear down some undiscerning gullets, make the plan!

Don’t be serving your Lynch Bages when Lamothe-Cissac will do. And if you must have Lynch Bages, decant all the wine and make sure you’re sitting next to someone you don’t mind sharing your special decanter with.

I have found over the years there’s absolutely no point in trying to be straight up and honest about this sort of thing. If it’s known there’s some quality hooch in the room, every horrid hooter comes sniffing it out – it’s human nature.

I’ve tried Champagne for the elders and prosecco for the youngers – hopeless! I’ve tried distracting away from vintage Champagne by offering glamourous sounding cocktails – hopeless! Having different bottles at different ends of the table – again, hopeless!

No, sadly, deceit and the decanter is the only way. Or find something everyone is happy with, especially with your pocket in mind.

Now I’ve covered the ‘do nots’, here are some ‘dos’ – other drinks, other than wine, to embrace over Christmas, and (possibly) with gusto.

Because this is the time to pour all drink those drinks you may not bother with very much the rest of the year. And, because it’s Christmas, you can always find a time, if not necessarily a quiet corner, to enjoy them.

For me, that includes the different kinds of Sherry, Madeira, Port, and Vin Doux Naturel, particularly.

There’s nothing better than a slice of Christmas cake and a thimble full of rich Madeira in the middle of the afternoon, to take the edge off the tyranny of family games.

Or a good glass of port with the cheese at the end of a leftovers lunch. And there’s a different kind of sherry for just about any hour of the day!

For my money, a twenty-year-old Tawny will usually beat a vintage port, as it tends to be not only more versatile, but also more refreshing. My advice is to keep a bottle chilled in the fridge, at all times, as you never know when you may need to seek refuge in it.

The vintage port you can stick it in a decanter on the side and leave a couple of small glasses next to it. You’ll be very lucky if the decanter makes it through to the new year – those pesky elves!

My current selection of Christmas tipples

Never forget the cocktails! Vermouth is a wonderfully versatile concoction with a wide array of flavours and is more than just a component of the ever fashionable, and lethal, Negroni (gin, Campari and sweet vermouth).

The Americano, which replaces gin with sparkling water, is a fine aperitif, although I prefer the Milano-Torino version which eschews the aqua. And for those who enjoy a bit of booze trivia, Milano is a reference to the home of Campari, Torino for Cinzano (sweet red vermouth).

Bone dry sherry mixed with sweet vermouth is also a winner; the possibilities are endless. Look at the drinks list from Moro for inspiration perhaps. Or its sister Morito.

I’m not going to offer any further advice on wine as you all know what’s in your cellar and what you prefer but do take the opportunity to take a risk or two, and open something different. I will be enjoying a magnum of Hengst Grand Cru Gewurztraminer 2007 from Josmeyer 2007 for instance.

I wish you well as you drink in Christmas!

Further top tips:

• Open large formats whenever possible, such a mood enhancer.
• Give someone in the family a cocktail book, preferably someone who is a) interested and b) capable.
• Buy some of these bad boys: Nuun, rehydration life savers for the over-indulged.
• Make sure the elder generation are well watered, especially the workers.
• If you can’t quite manage an icy dip, go for a nice long walk – everything tastes better for it.
• Make sure there’s enough gravy. Please, please don’t give the last of the gravy to your new pet hamster before Chef has had some.

Miles Davis 17th December 2025